# The Project Gutenberg eBook, Itinerary through Corsica, by Charles Bertram Black

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Title: Itinerary through Corsica

by its Rail, Carriage & Forest Roads

Author: Charles Bertram Black

Release Date: November 20, 2006 [eBook #19882]

Language: English

Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1

***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ITINERARY THROUGH CORSICA***

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Sketch Map of the Riviera and Corsica
— larger view —

### CORSICA.

##### NEW EDITIONS OF GUIDE-BOOKS FOR

#### FRANCE, BELGIUM, SPAIN, PORTUGAL
AND THE CHANNEL ISLANDS.

##### Copiously Illustrated with Maps and Plans.

NORTH-FRANCE—From the North Sea to the Loire, exclusive of Paris, and from the Bay of Biscay to the Rhine. 19 Maps and 21 Plans 7/6

SOUTH-FRANCE—From the Loire to the Mediterranean, and from the Bay of Biscay to the rivers Arno and Po. The island of Corsica. 40 Maps and 27 Plans 7/6

##### Published also in separate Parts.

North-France, WEST-HALF, or Normandy, Brittany and Touraine. 14 Maps and 16 Plans. Eighth Edition 5/

NORMANDY: Its Castles and Churches. Second Edition. 5 Maps and 9 Plans 2/6

North-France, EAST-HALF, or Picardy, Champagne, Lorraine, Alsace and part of Burgundy. 5 Plans and 5 Maps. Third Edition 2/6

South-France, WEST-HALF. The Summer Resorts in the Pyrenees; Luchon, Bigorre, Barèges, etc.; the Winter Resorts of Pau, Arcachon, Biarritz, St. Jean-de-Luz, Vernet, Amélie-les-Bains and Malaga, and the Claret-Wine Vineyards in Medoc. 17 Maps and 4 Plans. Fourth Edition 2/6

South-France, EAST-HALF, or the Valleys of the Waldenses, of the Rhône, the Durance and the Upper Loire; the Baths of Vichy, Aix-les-Bains, Royat, Vals, Mont-Dore, Bourboule, Bourbon-Lancy, Acqui, Lucca, Valdieri, etc.; the Volcanic Region of Ardèche; the Mountain-Passes between France and Italy; and the Riviera of the Mediterranean from Marseilles to Leghorn. 20 Plans and 21 Maps. Fourth Edition 5/

THE RIVIERA, or the Mediterranean from Marseilles to Leghorn, including the inland towns of Pisa, Lucca, Carrara and Florence, and Excursions into the Maritime Alps. Fourth Edition. 10 Plans and 13 Maps 2/6

CORSICA, its Rail, Carriage and Forest Roads, with 6 Maps from the latest authorities. Second Edition 1/

BELGIUM, its Churches, Chimes and Battlefields. 9 Plans and 4 Maps 2/6

NORTH-FRANCE (East-Half) and BELGIUM in One Volume, including a part of Holland. Convenient for those going to Aix-la-Chapelle, Spa, Vittel, Contrexéville, or any of the Bathing Stations on the North Sea 5/

HANDBOOK for the CAR-TOURIST in the pleasant Islands of Jersey, Guernsey and Alderney. Maps and Plans. Second Edition 1/

SPAIN and PORTUGAL. (O’Shea.) Seventh Edition. Edited by John Lomas. Crown 8vo. Maps and Plans 15/

##### From “Scotsman,” June 2, 1884.

“C. B. Black’s Guide-books have a character of their own; and that character is a good one. Their author has made himself personally acquainted with the localities with which he deals in a manner in which only a man of leisure, a lover of travel, and an intelligent observer of Continental life could afford to do. He does not ‘get up’ the places as a mere hack guide-book writer is often, by the necessity of the case, compelled to do. Hence he is able to correct common mistakes, and to supply information on minute points of much interest apt to be overlooked by the hurried observer.”

## ITINERARY

###### THROUGH

# CORSICA

###### BY ITS

### RAIL, CARRIAGE & FOREST ROADS

###### ILLUSTRATED BY FIVE MAPS AND ONE PLAN

##### C. B. BLACK

##### EDINBURGH
ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK
1888

v

### CONTENTS.

The four pages consisting of the Contents and List of Illustrations appeared twice in the original text, with identical wording and layout except that the first group was headed “Contents”, the second “Corsica.” The duplicate text has been omitted here.

More information.

viii

### LIST OF MAPS.

Some maps have been moved from their original location as printed in the List. Maps shown in the text are thumbnails linked to larger versions. Blue lines and numbers were extremely faded and have been redrawn. Note that some maps include segments of railroad which had been planned but not completed at the time of the guidebook's publication in 1888.

1

#### CORSICA

Corsica — larger view —

Is situated 54 miles W. from Leghorn, 98 m. S. from Genoa, and 106 m. S.E. from Nice. It is 116 m. long, 52 m. broad, and contains an area of 3376 square miles; divided into 5 arrondissements, subdivided into 62 cantons, and these again into 363 communes, with a population of 275,000. The surface, of which little more than a tenth is under cultivation, is composed of lofty and rugged granite mountain chains, diverging in all directions from the culminating peaks of Mounts Cinto, 8892 ft.; Rotondo, 8613 ft.; Pagliorba, 8278 ft.; Padro, 7846 ft.; and Oro, 8829 ft. On the western and southern sides of the island these ranges terminate abruptly on the shore, or run out into the sea; while, on the eastern side, a great undulating plain intervenes between their termination and the coast, in summer troubled with malaria, but in a less degree than formerly.

Corsica is the central region of the great plant system of the Mediterranean. Among the many fine forests which cover the mountains, the most important are those of Valdoniello, Filosorma, Vizzavona Verde, Zonza, Bavella, Ometa and Calenzana. They contain noble specimens of pines, oaks, beech, chestnut, walnut and olive trees. The cork oak forms woods, chiefly in the south of the island. The chestnut trees are as large and fruitful as the best on the Apennines, and the nuts form the staple article of food for man and beast during the winter months. Indeed, these glorious chestnut and beech forests, when in full foliage, are the grand features of Corsican scenery, which therefore cannot be seen to advantage till towards the end of May, and if to this we add the splendid bloom of the oleanders, not till July. “I at any rate know of no such combination of sea and mountains, of the sylvan beauty of the north with the rich colours of the south; no region where within so small a space nature takes so many sublime and exquisite aspects as she does in Corsica. Palms, orange groves, olives, vines, maize and chestnuts; the most picturesque beech forests, the noblest pine woods in Europe; granite peaks, snows and frozen lakes—all these are brought into the compass of a day’s journey. Everything is as novel to the Alpine climber as if, in place of being on a fragment of the Alps, severed only by 100 miles from their nearest snows, he was in a different continent.”—D. W. Freshfield, Alpine Club.

2

Vegetation.

The prickly pear, the American aloe, the castor-oil plant and the fig-tree, grow wild along the coast; while a little farther upwards, on the slopes and plateaus, the arbutus, cistus, oleander, myrtle and various kinds of heaths, form a dense coppice, called in the island maqui, supplying an excellent covert for various kinds of game and numerous blackbirds. When the arbutus and myrtle berries are ripe the blackbirds are eagerly hunted, as at that time they are plump and make very savoury and delicate eating.

There are few cows on the island, the greater part of the milk supply being procured from goats. It is excellent, and has no rank flavour.

The only remarkable creature is the mouflon, a species of sheep, resembling that almost extinct animal the bouquetin or ibex of the Alps. It inhabits the highest mountains, and though very wild is easily tamed.

The best red wines are grown about Ajaccio, Tallano, Cervione and Sartene, and the best white wines in Sari and in the valleys of Cape Corso. They improve up to twenty years, and even up to fifty.

The temperature of the climate of Corsica varies according to the elevation. Along the coast the sun is warm even in January. After January the temperature rises rapidly. The climate of the zone 2000 ft. above the sea is considerably colder and snow generally appears there in December. The olive ripens its fruit up to an elevation of 2000 ft. and the chestnut to 3000, where it gives place to oaks, box trees, junipers, firs and beeches. The greater part of the population inhabits the region of the chestnut trees, in villages scattered over the mountain slopes, valleys and tablelands.

Steamboats.

Steamers to Corsica.—For invalids the easiest way is by the large weekly Tunis steamer of the Compagnie Generale Transatlantique, 12 R. de la Republique, which on its way from and to Marseilles, touches at Ajaccio, 211 m. S., in 16 to 19 hrs., fare including meals, 38 frs. The Compagnie Insulaire, 29 R. Cannebière, have boats every week for Ajaccio and Propriano, 38 frs., Calvi and Ile Rousse, 28 frs., Bastia and Leghorn, 32 frs., and Nice, Bastia and Leghorn. Weekly steamers between Genoa, Leghorn and Bastia. The boats of the Compagnie Insulaire being smaller, come within a few yards of the mole. The luggage is landed from the steamers by the company free of expense and is delivered at the custom-house to the proprietor on presentation of the bulletin de baggage. Passengers are taken ashore and to their hotels for 2 frs. each.

The Navigazione Generale Italiana, Piazza Marini, Genoa, have a steamer every week for Portotorres, at the north-west extremity of Sicily, calling at Bastia. Also from Leghorn to Bastia. Distance 72 miles, fare 20 frs., time 7 hrs.

Small steamer between Ajaccio and Propriano twice weekly.

Ajaccio
— larger view —

3

#### AJACCIO.

Hotels.—On an eminence, in its own grounds, rising gently from the sea, is the *Grand Hotel, with sea and fresh water baths and every convenience; opened at the end of the present year. A skilled English physician on the premises.

There are besides three good family hotels, charging from 8 to 12 frs.; in the Course Grandval, the H. Continental, wine 1½ fr., carpeted brick floors, garden; near it, with south exposure and full view of the bay, the *H. Suisse or Schweizerhof, wine 1 fr., smooth wood floors, partially carpeted, garden; at the top of the Course Grandval, the H. Bellevue, wine 1¼ fr., partially carpeted wood floors, garden.

These prices include coffee or tea in the morning, meat breakfast and dinner and service, but neither candles nor wine, of which the lowest price per bottle is given above. In the Place Bonaparte is the H. de France, a good French hotel, pension 8 to 12 frs.

Bankers and Money-changers.—The bank Bozzo-Costa and the bank Lanzi, both near each other in the Boulevard Roi Jerome.

The office of the Compagnie Transatlantique is in the same Boulevard; the office of the Compagnie Insulaire is in the Place du Marché.

Cabs.—The course 1½ fr., the hour 2 frs., the day 25 frs.

Tariff of return drives, with 2 frs. extra for every hour of repose.

West from Ajaccio: Scudo, 5 frs.; Vignola 1114 ft., 15 frs.; Vignola village, 10 frs.; Lisa, 15 frs.; Iles Sanguinaires, 10 frs.; St. Antoine, 5 frs.; Salario, 5 frs. North from Ajaccio: Castelluccio, 4 frs.; Mezzavia, 5 frs.; Alata and Col Carbinica, 25 frs.; Afa, 20 frs.

East from Ajaccio: the Campo dell’ Oro, or the plain at the mouth of the Gravona, 5 frs.; the Baths of Caldaniccia, 5 frs.; Bastelicaccia, 5 frs.; Pisciatella, 6 frs. Three frs. gratuity for a whole day. The horses cover on an average about thirty miles a day.

AJACCIO, pop. 19,050, the capital of Corsica, is situated on the extremity of a small gulf 677 miles from Paris and 15 to 20 hours’ sail from Marseilles. Founded in 1492 by the Bank of St. George of Genoa, a commercial association similar to the East India Company, it was raised in 1811 through the influence of Madame Letitia and Cardinal Fesch to the dignity of capital of the island, and became accordingly the residence of the Préfet and the seat of the civil and ecclesiastical Courts. Ajaccio has a handsome Episcopal chapel built by Miss Campbell, of Moniack Castle, Scotland, an accomplished lady, the authoress of a work on the island in French and English.

In the Cours Napoleon is a small French mission, whose worthy pastor, besides conducting the regular Sunday services, gives two lectures (conferences) every week, which are attended by from 80 to 100 people.

The houses in Ajaccio, as well as those throughout the island, are generally built in large square blocks of from 3 to 5 stories, each story forming a separate dwelling.

4

Napoleon’s Birthplace.

The mole at which passengers land from the steamers is at the foot of the Place du Marché. In the centre of this “Place” is a fountain ornamented with lions and a white marble statue of Napoleon I. by Laboureur. To the left of the statue is the Hotel de Ville, the markets, and the commencement of the Rue Fesch, in which is the edifice containing the public library, the museum, and the memorial chapel (p. 5); while to the right is the Rue Napoleon, in which the first opening right leads into the Place Letitia. A little beyond this opening is No. 17, the house of the Pozzo di Borgo family, of whom Charles André, 1768-1842, was the great upholder of Paoli and the bitter enemy of Napoleon I. Napoleon’s house, though not equal to that of the Borgo family, was one of the best in Ajaccio. It is well built, of three stories of six windows each, and all the rooms have a more or less handsome marble chimney-piece. Over the door is inscribed on white marble “Napoleon est né dans cette maison le XV Aovt MDCCLXIX”. A good staircase, bordered by a wrought-iron railing, leads to the top. The rooms shown are on the first floor. The first is the parlour, with a small table, a few chairs, and a piano said to have belonged to Mme. Letitia. Then after having passed through a small chamber we enter the room in which Napoleon was born, into which Madame was brought hurriedly from the church in the sedan chair kept in the end room. Over the chimney-piece are portraits of the father and mother. Then follows the dining-room, and after it the drawing-room, with inlaid wood floor and six windows on both sides. The floors of all the other rooms are of glazed tiles. In the next room is the sedan chair. Fee for party 1 fr.

This now silent and empty house was once enlivened and brightened by the fair Letitia and her large family of children, just like other men’s children; schoolboys toiling at their Plutarch or Cæsar, and their three young sisters growing up careless and rather wild, like their neighbours’ daughters, in the half-barbarous island town. There is Joseph, the eldest, then Napoleon, the second born, then Lucien, Louis, and Jerome; then Caroline, Eliza, and Pauline, the children of a notary of moderate income, who is incessantly and vainly carrying on law-suits with the Jesuits of Ajaccio to gain a contested estate which is necessary to his numerous family. Their future fills him with anxiety; what will they be in the world and how will they secure a comfortable subsistence? And behold! these same children, one after the other, take to themselves the mightiest crowns of the earth—tear them from the heads of the most unapproachable kings of Europe and wear them in the sight of 5 all the world; and they, the sons of an Ajaccio lawyer, cause themselves to be embraced as brothers and brothers-in-law by emperors and kings. Napoleon is European Emperor; Joseph King of Spain; Louis King of Holland; Jerome King of Westphalia; Caroline Queen of Naples and Pauline and Eliza Princesses of Italy. In 1793, after the flight of Madame Letitia and her children to her country residence, the Casone, the house was pillaged by the Corsicans opposed to the French Republic.

Cathedral.

Near the Place Letitia is the cathedral built in the 16th century by Pope Gregory. It contains the font at which Napoleon I. was baptized on the 21st July 1771.

Memorial Chapel.

In the Rue Fesch is the College founded in 1822. In one wing of the edifice is the public library, with 33,000 volumes, founded by Lucien Bonaparte, and the museum and picture gallery, with 900 paintings, mostly copies; and in the other the memorial chapel built by Napoleon III., lined with beautiful marble. In the crypt under the transept, left hand, is the tomb of Marie Letitia Ramolino, died at Rome in 1836; and right hand, that of Napoleon’s uncle, Cardinal Fesch, died at Rome in 1839. Both bodies were brought to this, their present resting-place, in 1851. There are, besides, the tombs of Prince Charles and of Zenaida his daughter. Napoleon’s father died in 1785 and is buried at Montpellier. Madame was only 35 at his death and had already borne him 13 children, 5 of whom were dead, and Jerome was an infant in the cradle.

Parallel with the Rue Fesch is the Cours Napoleon, by which all the diligences enter and leave the town. The continuation round the bay is bordered with plane trees. At the commencement is a bronze statue of “E. C. Abbatucci né à Zicavo le 12 Novembre 1770, mort pour la patrie le 2 Decembre 1796.” Near it is the railway station.

At the western end of the Cours Napoleon is the Place Bonaparte or Diamant, bordered with trees and ornamented with a complicate bronze monument on a granite pedestal by Violet le Duc, “à la memoire de Napoleon I. et de ses frères Joseph, Lucien, Louis, Jerome.” All are life-size statues; Napoleon is on horseback, the others on foot, marching solemnly towards the sea.

Walks.

##### EXCURSIONS.

From the port, 11 m. W., is the chapel S. Antonio, 850 ft. The road passes the penitentiary of S. Antonio, 331 ft. North from it, under the peak of La Barrage, 1476 feet, is the Castelluccio penitentiary. Westward by the Hospice Eugenie and the Batterie de Maestrello, a 6 pleasant road leads along the coast to the orange gardens of Barbicaja, passing by the Chapelle de Greco and the cemetery. About 4 m. farther is the Tête Parata, 199 ft., opposite the Iles Sanguinaires.

A beautiful road, the continuation of the Cours Grandval, ascends 2½ m. to the Fontaine du Salario, 760 ft., commanding enchanting views. This road traverses the Place Casone, 144 ft., occupying the site of the Casone, the country house of the Bonapartes, destroyed in 1878. Close by is the “grotte Napoleon,” composed of blocks of granite, to which, it is said, the youthful Napoleon used to retire.

About 6 m. N. from Ajaccio is the village of Alata, 1312 ft. Within an easy walking distance north from Ajaccio is the pleasant estate of Carrosaccia, on the canal which supplies the town with water from the Gravona. 5½ m. N. from Ajaccio are the sulphurous springs of Caldaniccia.

Family Tombs.

In the neighbourhood of Ajaccio and of the other Corsican towns and villages are numerous family sepulchral chapels enclosed within walls. A more pleasing characteristic feature, probably inherited from the Moors, are the numerous fountains in the villages and by the road side, whence flow streams of cold, sparkling water of exquisite purity.

Climate.

Climate.—For convalescent invalids, Ajaccio forms a delightful change from the Riviera, as it is so rural, and has such pleasant air and good water. The hotels are comfortable and their charges moderate. As, too, the road metal used around Ajaccio is that disintegrating granite which so readily solidifies by the combined action of the rain and traffic, there is very little dust in the neighbourhood (p. 9).

The principal winds are the Libeccio or S.W. wind, the Sirocco or S.E. wind, and the Mistral or N.W. wind.

On the 12th, 13th and 14th of May the fair of St. Pancras is held, which affords a good opportunity for purchasing Corsican horses. They are from 10 to 14 hands high and of great endurance. It is wonderful to behold the energy these small slim creatures display in dragging heavy lumbering diligences up long, steep, winding roads.

But more wonderful still is it to see the peasant women and girls as young as thirteen carrying on their heads up and down the mountain paths big pails, or the more elegant two-handled brass jars of classic form, containing about two gallons of water, without ever stumbling on any of the many stones. The pails are made of copper lined with tin, weighing when full of water from 55 lbs. to 65 lbs.

Among the curiosities of Ajaccio are gourds made into bottles, of various shapes and sizes and mounted with silver, and the pretty baskets made of straw by the girls of Alata.

Environs of Ajaccio
— larger view —

7

##### Ajaccio to Bastia.

Ajaccio to Bocognano by rail, thence by diligence to Corté; Corté to Bastia by rail 47 m., or 44 by road. The road from Ajaccio ascends the valley of the Gravona to its source at the Col Vizzavona. On the N. side of the Col it follows the course of the Vecchio. The most picturesque part of this route is between Vizzavona and Vivario.

AJACCIO
BASTIA 95 AJACCIO. Start from the station in the Cours Napoleon. The road, after traversing the fertile plain of Campo dell Oro, crosses the Col Sudricchio, 804 ft., and then the bridge of Ucciani, 948 ft., built in the reign of Louis XIV., 17½ m. from Ajaccio and 2 m. from the village of Ucciani. Use general map, and map, p. 27.

Bocognano.

AJACCIO
BASTIA 25 70 BOCOGNANO pop. 2000, and 2120 ft. above the sea. Inn: Univers. Picturesquely situated in a plantation of chestnut trees, surrounded by high mountain peaks. Near Bocognano commences the Vizzavona tunnel, 4375 yards through the mountain. Diligence now to Corté. The road, having crossed the Sellola bridge, 2843 ft., winds its way up by the Col de Pinzalone, 3370 ft., and the Maison and Pont de Lavatoggio 3615 ft. to the top of the ridge. See map, p. 27.

Vizzavona.—Pines.

AJACCIO
BASTIA 31 64 LE FORT DE VIZZAVONA on the summit of the Pass, 3813 ft. above the sea, with the Gendarmerie and a few houses of refuge. A few miles northwards is Monte d’Oro, 7845 ft., and southwards Monte Renoso, 7733 ft. The diligence, in its descent to Vivario, traverses the forest of Vizzavona, consisting mainly of beeches and larches, frequently 150 ft. high. Of this tree there are two varieties, the Pinus pinaster or cluster pine, the Pin maritime of the French, which grows best on deep loose soils and flourishes even on the drifting sands of the sea shore. They supply large quantities of resin. Their wood being soft, coarse and perishable, is usually converted into charcoal and lamp black. The other is the Pinus laricio, which thrives on the high lands of Corsica, Spain, south of France, Greece and Cyprus. Their growth is rapid, the trunk straight and from 100 to 150 ft. high, the branches are in regular whorls, forming in large trees a pyramidal head, and the leaves are slender, from 4 to 7 inches long, and of a dark green tint. The timber is good and durable, though less strong than that of the Pinus silvestris. Between the 51st and 53d kilomètre stones are passed the “Maison de Refuge d’Alzarella,” and the “Maison de refuge Omellina,” 2832 ft.

After crossing the Col de Campo di Lupo, 2684 ft., 35 m. from Ajaccio, the road descends into the ravine of the Vecchio, above which is

8

Vivario.

AJACCIO
BASTIA 38 57 VIVARIO pop. 1500, and 2152 ft. Inn: H. Voyageurs a three-storied house. Junction with road to Zicavo, 37 m. S. (pp. 27, 29). Although Vivario be a poor village, yet it has a terrace and fountain ornamented with a statue of Diana. The breeding of pigs fed in the adjoining chestnut forest, and the manufacture of hams, sausages and bacon, are the most important industries of the inhabitants.

From Vivario a forest road extends 27 m. S.E. to the hamlet of Vadina, by Muracciole 2022 ft., 1½ m., the Col Erbajo 3018 ft., 7 m.; Pietroso 10½ m., Saparelli 12½ m., and Quinzena 18 m. From Vadina a good carriage road leads 6 m. to the Baths of Pietrapola, which are supplied by most copious springs of hot, saline, sulphurous water. The season is from May 1 to June 30; or September 1 to November 30. The situation is beautiful and the bathing-establishment and lodging accommodation comfortable, and much frequented.

The road from Vivario to Serraggio passes along the top of the rocky gorge of the foaming Vecchio. The best view of the gorge is from the Pont du Vecchio 40 m. from Ajaccio and 280 ft. above the bed. From Serraggio, 1890 ft., Mt d’Oro is well seen. See map, p. 20.

The road now passes Lugo, 1980 ft.; S. Pietro, 2496 ft.; the Col. S. Nicolo, 2473 ft.; and Casanova, 2136 ft., to

Corté.

AJACCIO
BASTIA 51 44 CORTÉ 1329 ft., pop. 5500. Hotels: *Paoli, 8 to 10 frs., Europe. Is situated at the junction of the Tavignano with the Restonico, in the midst of majestic mountains of the most varied form. The citadel or château, built in the early part of the 15th century, stands on precipitous and jagged rocks rising from the Tavignano, commanding from the top a magnificent view of the wild surrounding scenery. In the “Place” is a statue of Paoli, the Corsican patriot, born at Stretta in 1726, and to the right of the statue the post and telegraph office. In the immediate neighbourhood stands a large house, a Franciscan convent, in which the Corsican parliament assembled in Paoli’s time. Near Corté, by the left side of the Restonico, is a quarry of marble of a bluish tint with reddish white veins. To take the walk up the gorge of the Restonico, descend by first road left up the main street from the hotels and cross only the Tavignano bridge. The mountain appearing to close the valley is Mte. Rotondo. See map, p. 20.

Coach to Aleria, 31 m. S.E. (p. 33), by a beautiful road.

Just outside Corté the rail traverses the Torretta tunnel, 1531 yards.

Mte. Rotondo.

From Corté the ascent of Monte Rotondo is most easily effected. It is 8613 feet above the sea-level, or 7284 feet above Corté. Cabins inhabited by the herdsmen are scattered over the declivities of the mountain up to within 3000 feet of the top. Time 2 days. Guide 9 with mule 25 frs. Ascend by the road up the picturesque valley of the Restonico to the Timozzo bridge, 3590 feet, and 2½ hours from Corté. From this the path extends 1½ hour up the wild ravine of the Timozzo to the shepherds’ huts; whence the rest must be done on foot. Now the hard work commences. Block lies above block, towering upwards and upwards in such endless masses of monotonous gray that the heart quails with the sight and the foot trembles to go farther. After about 2 hours’ scramble over these colossal steps the traveller reaches the fontaine de Triggione, about 2200 feet below the summit and in full view of it, an incomplete circle of steep jagged cliffs. About 330 feet higher is a little dark lake, the Lago di Monte Rotondo, encircled by gentle green slopes, where the night is generally spent. Snow-field extend from the lake to the summit, which, although apparently near, requires 2 full hours’ climbing to reach, often on hands and feet, over sharp fragments of rock, or up steep beds of slippery frozen snow. The extreme peak is a rugged obelisk of gray rock ending in a pinnacle. A way leads down by the S. side in 6 hours, to Guagno by lake Bettianella, 3419 ft., then W. by the road over the Col de Manganella, 5874 ft. See map, p. 20.

Granite.

“The view from Monte Rotondo did not impress me. The central uplands, which form a large portion of it, are bare and arid, while the great ridge of Monte Cinto stretches across the northern horizon like a long screen. Comparatively little of the coast is seen in any direction, but most towards the west. It was curious to notice how completely the tops of the mountains between us and the Cinto ridge were flattened down, while the crest on which we stood was a set of bristling teeth. There are two kinds of granite in Corsica, one friable and unable to resist the action of the air, the other hard and defiant of the elements. Of this latter consist the Cinto range, Monte Rotondo and the rocks in the forest of Bavella.”—D. W. Freshfield, Alpine Club.

The road now from Corté to Bastia traverses the Quilico Col, 1932 ft., passes Soveria, 1843 ft., and Caporalino, 8 m. from Corté, 36 from Bastia and 1 m. from Omessa. About 1½ m. farther it crosses the Golo by the Francardo bridge, 856 ft., where it meets the great Forest Road from Porto, 50 m. S.W. by Evisa and the Col de Vergio, p. 18, and map, p. 20.

Ponte Leccia.

AJACCIO
BASTIA 66 29 PONTE ALLA LECCIA 624 ft. Village, and coach and railway station. Inn: Cyrnoz. Diligence to Calvi by the beautiful northern continuation of the road from Prunete by Cervione and Piedicroce, p. 20. "Courrier" daily to Piedicroce, 18 m. S.E. by Morosaglia, see p. 34. During the summer heats Ponte alla Leccia is considered insalubrious.

Ponte Novo.

AJACCIO
BASTIA 71 24 PONTE NOVO. The site of the disastrous battle fought on the 9th of May 1769, when the Corsicans lost their independence and 10 became subject to France. The two small houses on the right bank, a little farther down the river, were Paoli’s headquarters. One month afterwards he, with some other Corsican refugees, sailed from Porto Vecchio in a British vessel for England (p. 39).

Borgo.

AJACCIO
BASTIA 85 10 BORGO pop. 820. On the Mariana hills, rising from Lake Biguglia, one of the many lagoons on the eastern coast, separated from the sea by narrow sandbanks. Along this coast extend the only large plains in Corsica. Unfortunately, in summer they are subject to malaria, which, however, a judicious system of drainage is gradually abating. They are cultivated by Italian labourers who visit the island periodically. Between Borgo and Bastia is Bevinco, with valuable marble quarries. Southward from Borgo on the coast is Mariana, the site of the colony founded by Marius (p. 34).

Bastia.

AJACCIO 95 BASTIA pop. 21,000. Hotels: *France; Europe; Lingenieur; Croix de Malte over the post and telegraph office, all in the Boul. du Palais, 8 to 10 frs. Theatre; Public Library with 65,000 volumes. Steamers twice a week to Marseilles, time 18 hours, touching once a week at Nice, 12 hours distant. Fare direct to Marseilles, including food, 28 frs. To Nice, without food, 30 frs. Rubattino’s steamers leave three times a week for Leghorn; time 6 hours. These same steamers proceed afterwards to Genoa. Railway to Corté. Rail also to Aleria, whence diligence to Bonifacio, Sartène and Ajaccio.

Diligences daily from Bastia to Cap Corse, 7 hours, 6 or 5 frs.; and also to Calvi, 12 hours, 13 or 10 frs.

Brando.

Carriages to visit the stalactite cave at Brando, 10 frs. Admission 2 frs. each. It is 7 m. from Bastia, above Erbalunga, on the face of a mountain; and was discovered in 1841 by M. Ferdinandi. A steep path leads up to it. Keeper near cave. See p. 12.

Bastia, the most important city of Corsica, is built on ground rising gently from the sea. Facing the sea and the principal harbour is the Place St. Nicholas, adorned with a marble statue of Napoleon I., by Bartolini, looking towards the island of Elba. In this “Place”, the promenade of the town, are the offices of the Messageries Maritimes and of the Compagnie Insulaire. Fraissinet’s office is at the old harbour; whence also their steamers sail.

From the Place St. Nicholas ascends the principal street, the Boulevard du Palais, to the Palais de Justice. In this Boulevard are the post and telegraph offices (whence most of the diligences start), the hotels, cafés and the best shops, and from it ramify the streets of the 11 town. At the top of the B. du Palais commences, right hand, the Boul. Cardo, one of the best roads to take for views of the town and neighbourhood. A flight of steps leads from the quay up to the cathedral, a handsome building in the Italian style. The markets are held in the “Place” fronting the cathedral. Most of the houses are built in large blocks from 5 to 6 stories high and from 6 to 9 windows broad, each story forming a separate residence.

Bastia owes its name to the bastion built here by the Genoese in the 14th century. From the hills behind Bastia the view embraces the islands of Gorgona, Capraja, Elba, and Monte-Christo, seen best from the top of the Serra di Pigno, 3640 feet. Refer to map on fly-leaf.

Steamers.

The most beautiful part of Corsica, and the most easily visited, is the eastern side, including the Castagniccia or the chestnut country, and the whole region up in the mountains, which border this coast. The wealthiest, most industrious and most enterprising of the people are those who inhabit that long narrow tongue of land called Cap Corse. Although boats are constantly sailing from Marseilles and Leghorn to Bastia, invalids visiting Corsica with the intention of wintering in Ajaccio should, if possible, sail from Marseilles or Nice direct to Ajaccio; but on leaving the island, when winter is over, Bastia is perhaps the best port to sail from, as it affords an excellent opportunity for visiting the most beautiful parts of Corsica and the most important towns in Italy. On arriving at Leghorn (see Black’s South France) it is best to proceed at once to the railway station, and start for Pisa, only 30 minutes distant. There are numerous trains. At the station and in the kiosques in the “Piazzas” of Leghorn, is sold an excellent little book with all the railway Time-tables, L’Indicatore Ufficiale, price 50 c.

Cap Corse.—Wine.

#### CAP CORSE.

##### Bastia to Rogliano and Morsaglia.

###### See General Map, p. 1.

By diligence, fare to Rogliano, 4 frs. and 3 frs., distance 27½ m., 6 hrs. To Morsaglia, 5½ and 4½ frs., distance 37½ m., 8 hrs. By the road skirting the eastern side of the peninsula of Cap Corse, the best cultivated part of the island, and containing the tidiest villages. The best Cap Corse wine, mostly white, is produced around Luri and Rogliano. The quality used as table wine is drunk the first year. It improves till the fifth year, the better qualities till the tenth and twentieth year. Cap Corse is traversed by a rugged mountain range or serra, of which the 12 culminating peaks are Mount Alticcione, 4230 feet; Mount Stello, 4536 feet; and the Serra de Pigno, 3640 feet. From the east side of this rugged serra little fertile valleys extend to the sea.

Pino.—Luri.

Mr. Freshfield thus describes the “Cap”:—“Down a promontory 8 to 10 m. wide runs a range 3000 to 4000 ft. high, with the crest towards the western coast and the valleys towards the eastern. Hence the western Cornice road is a terrace along an always steep, sometimes sheer, mountain side, while the eastern crosses a succession of low maquis-covered spurs, which beyond Cap Sagro flatten and become monotonous. Pino is one of the most beautiful sites on the western coast. It is also important as the spot where the cross-road through the vale of Luri, under Seneca’s tower, falls into the western Cornice. Half-way on this road the village of Luri groups itself in the most picturesque way imaginable on a hill-side broken by a deep ravine. Down on the seashore above the little Marina or port is a large convent; a church occupies a projecting brow 200 ft. above it; higher still, and right and left, every vantage-ground is occupied by groups of well-built villas and sepulchral chapels. The slopes are terraced into orchards of citron, lemon, peach and almond trees, olive groves and vineyards, sheltered from the gales of winter by high palisades.”

Farther south, 5¼ m., is Nonza, with inn, 479 ft., pop. 550. Coach to St. Florent. This is one of the most curious villages of the island. It stands like an eagle’s nest, perched above the sea on a black rock on the mountain side. Its houses, built level with the edge of the cliffs, formed in olden days a sufficient rampart against marauders.

The diligence having passed Lavasina 4½ m. from Bastia, Brando 7 m., and Erbalunga 6¼ m., halts at Sisco-port 9¼ m. To visit the cave of Brando take the steep narrow path left, near a mill, just before arriving at Erbalunga. Seats in shady places are placed here and there. The keeper’s house is close to the entrance. The diligence then proceeds by Pietracorbara 11½ m., and the Torre all’Osse 13 m.; one of the best remaining specimens of the 85 towers built by the Pisans and Genoese to ward off the attacks of the Saracens. From the Torre the diligence proceeds other 2 m. to Perticciolo, where it halts.

Seneca’s Tower.

Two miles farther is S. Severa, where the horses are changed and the passengers breakfast. From S. Severa, a road ramifies 10 m. W. to Pino on the other side of the peninsula by the valley of the Luri, with vineyards and orange groves, passing the village of Luri 3½ m., with good inn, the Col de S. Lucie 7 m., 1363 ft., and Saronese 9¾ m. From the Santa Severa inn, Seneca’s tower is distinctly seen, at the head of the valley, on the summit of a precipitous peak, rising from the S. side of the Col, 1355 ft., from which a steep, stony path leads up 13 to it, by a forsaken Franciscan convent. The view is grand. To this tower, one of the many watch-towers built in the 12th cent., Seneca could never have been sent, but to the Roman colony of Mariana, then used as a place of banishment for political offenders.

Seneca.

Lucius Annæus Seneca was born at Cordova in Spain, just before the commencement of the Christian era. His eldest brother was A. Seneca Novatus, which name was altered afterwards to that of his adopted father, Junius Gallio. This brother was the proconsul of Achaia, before whom St. Paul was arraigned (Acts xviii. 12). While Seneca was still a child he was brought by his aunt to Rome, where he had for teachers Sotion, Papirius Fabianus and Attalus the Stoic. Although weak in body he was a most diligent student, which, joined to his powerful memory, enabled him to obtain at an early age important offices. Before his banishment, A.D. 41, he had already served as quæstor. Having irritated Caligula, he would have been put to death, had not one of the mistresses of the emperor assured him that it was not worth while, as Seneca was so consumptive he would soon die a natural death.

In the first year of the reign of Claudius, his wife Messalina having become jealous of the influence his niece Julia, daughter of Germanicus, had over Claudius her husband, succeeded in getting rid of her by imputing to her improper intimacy with Seneca, then a married man. For that reason Seneca was banished to Corsica A.D. 41.

During his exile he wrote his consolatory letter to his mother Helvia, as well as a panegyric on Messalina and a consolatory letter to Polybius, ostensibly to condole with him on the loss of his brother; but in reality to get that powerful freedman to exert his influence with the emperor, to recall his sentence of exile. This letter is full of fulsome flattery and expressions unworthy of an honest man.

After the death of Messalina, Claudius married his niece Agrippina, sister of Julia and mother of Nero by a former husband. Through her influence Seneca was recalled A.D. 49 and appointed a prætor and tutor to Nero, then 11 years old. In A.D. 51 Agrippina poisoned her husband.

Macinaggio.—Rogliano.—Botticella.

From S. Severa, the diligence, resuming its journey, passes Meria 20½ m., and halts again at the port of Macinaggio 2½ m. more. From this commences the steep ascent up to Rogliano 1300 ft., a town built in groups on the side of the mountain, among vineyards and olive and chestnut trees, the inn being in the second highest group, near the post-office. 14 After Rogliano the diligence crosses the Cols S. Anne, Cappiaja and S. Nicholas, and arrives at Botticella 31 m., and then proceeds to Ersa with inn, near the top of the Col de Serra 1182 ft., commanding a good view of Cap Corse. Shortly afterwards the diligence arrives at Morsaglia, called also Pecorile, a village composed of groups of houses like Rogliano on the side of a hill. The conductor of the diligence will show the hotel. Six miles S. from Morsaglia is Pino, see p. 12.

From Botticella a road leads 4½ m. N. to Barcaggio, opposite the island of Giraglia, on which is a first-class lighthouse, 269 feet above the sea, seen within a radius of 14 m.

From Morsaglia the road is continued 31 m. farther to the Col S. Bernardino on the Bastia and St. Florent road, passing Pino, 25 m. from the Col S. Bernardino; Minerbio, 21½ m.; Marinca, 16 m.; Nonza, 9 m.; Farinole, 2½ m.; Pont du Patrimonio, 1¼ m.; and joins the Bastia road at the Col S. Bernardino, 11¼ m. W. from Bastia.

##### Bastia to Calvi.

###### 57 miles west; time 12 hours; fare 13 and 10 frs.

Col Teghime.

BASTIA
CALVI 57 BASTIA. The road traverses a mountainous country, with scanty vegetation. As far as St. Florent the prevailing rocks are micaceous and beyond granitic. Immediately after leaving Bastia the diligence commences the ascent of the Col de Teghime (1785 feet) in the Serra di Pigno, discovering as it winds its way upwards, an ever-extending panorama over the great eastern plain, including Lake Biguglia, and the Mediterranean with the islands of Elba, Gorgona and Monte Christo. As the road descends towards the western shore, the enchanting panorama of the blue gulf of St. Florent, encircled by low reddish rocks, gradually unfolds itself. It was at this road, made by Count Marbœuf, at which, it is said, King Bernadotte worked among the other labourers. It passes the hamlets of Barbaggio and Patrimonio, the Col St. Bernardino 11¼ m. from Bastia, and the Pont des Strette, and enters the valley of Nebbio, partly watered by the sluggish Aliso, flowing through a marsh crowded with oleanders.

St. Florent.

BASTIA
CALVI 14¼ 42¾ ST. FLORENT, pop. 760. Hôtel de l’Europe, where a hurried breakfast can be had while the horses are being changed. Close to the village is the site of the ancient town of Nebbio, occupied now by a few poor houses and a small church, now a ruin, built in the 12th century. Napoleon said, “St. Florent has one of the finest situations I have ever seen. It lies most favourably for commerce, its landing 15 places are safe and its roads can accommodate large fleets. I should have built there a large and beautiful city.” It was one of the first places to give adherence to the Bank of Genoa.

The road now for some distance leaves the shore and ascends a range of barren hills containing slate, limestone and granite. Hardy trees become more abundant than the chestnut, and the mountains higher and more imposing, as we approach the little port of

L’Ile Rousse.

BASTIA
CALVI 42 15 L’ILE ROUSSE, pop. 1610; Hotel Europe. The diligence stops in the “Place” near the monument to Pascal Paoli, and remains a sufficient time to enable the traveller to cast a glance over the main features of this port, founded by Paoli in 1759. The street beyond the “Place” leads by the market to the harbour and to the long jagged tongue of red sandstone rocks projecting into the sea, bearing on the extreme point a lighthouse of the fourth order. Steamer every alternate week to Marseilles. There is a charming view from the eminence St. Reparata, crowned with a church, now abandoned.

Inland from L’Ile Rousse is the fertile valley of Balagna, famous for the size and fertility of its olive trees (p. 20).

BASTIA
CALVI 47 10 ALGAJOLA, pop. 200. The block of granite which forms the pedestal of the column in the Place Vendome came from the quarries of this place. Pillars 65 feet long can be procured from this quarry.

Lumio.

BASTIA
CALVI 51 6 LUMIO, pop. 1100, among orange groves and high cactus hedges. From the hills here there is a beautiful view of the valley and gulf of Calvi. Junction here with road to Corté, 55½ miles, south-east, passing through a charming and picturesque country (see p. 20).

Calvi.

BASTIA 57 CALVI, pop. 2200. Inns: H. France, in the high town; *Colombani, in the low town, near the dil. office and the wharf. Steamer for Marseilles every alternate week. This, the nearest port to France, is composed of the Citadel or Haute Ville and the Port or Basse Ville. The former, although the residence of the public functionaries, has a dilapidated and forsaken appearance. A rough road, paved with blocks of granite, leads up to it and to the ramparts, commanding beautiful and extensive views. The houses, shops and streets of the Basse Ville are much better and more cheerful than those in the Citadel. Both are defended by Fort Mozzello, rising behind the harbour. On the Punta-Revellata is a lighthouse of the first order, with a fixed light seen 20 miles off. Eight miles S.E. from Calvi is Calenzana, pop. 2900, with the chapel of S. Restituta, visited by pilgrims.

16

##### Calvi to Ajaccio.

CALVI
AJACCIO 102 Distance 102 miles S.E. The road skirts the coast the greater part of the way. The first village is Galeria, pop. 500—Inn: Seta, 21 miles S. from Calvi. From Galeria the Route Forestière, No. 8, extends 16 miles eastwards to the Col Capronale, 4495 feet, in the forest of Ometa. Six miles from Galeria is the entrance to the forest of evergreen oaks of Treccio, as well as the commencement of the road, 4½ m. long, to the forest of Perticato by the Col Erbajo, 3½ m., 2090 ft., and the Bocca Melza, 4½ m. 2500 ft.

##### Galeria to the Forests of Filosorma.

###### Grand scenery. Guide necessary. Map, p. 20.

This, the forest road No. 8, has two ramifications. The main line follows the course of the Fango the whole way, and only becomes a mule-path when near the Maison de Cantonniers d’Ometa, 14 m. E.

3¾ m. from Galeria a mule-path ramifies from the road to the hamlets of Tuarelli, Prunicciole and Chiorna. 3 m. farther is the ramification, 4½ m. S., through the forest of Perticato by the Col d’Erbajo, 2090 ft., 3½ m. S., and the Bocca Melza, 2500 ft., 4½ m. S. From the Bocca Melza a very bad path leads 2 m. S. to the hamlet of Pinito. At the beginning of the above ramification the main road enters the Ilex forest of Treccio, and leaves it nearly 2 m. afterwards.

8¾ m. from Galeria is a roadside inn, and 3¼ m. farther the entrance into the Ilex forest of Ometa.

11¼ m. from Galeria and about 2 m. from the almost unknown valley of the Lonca, an affluent of the Porto, is the Pont de Lancone, 1083 ft., across the Rocce. From this bridge there is a good view of Mt. Tafonato, 7687 ft., to the N.E., with its singularly perforated peak.

13¼ m. is the Grand Cassis d’Ometa, 1680 ft. A little farther the road becomes a bridle-path, and ascends from 1677 ft. to the Maison de Cantonniers d’Ometa, 2274 ft., and 1 m. farther is the end of the forest of Ometa.

15 m. from Galeria is the Grand Cassis de Giargione, 1163 ft., and about 2 m. farther the summit of Col Capronale, 4495 ft. A little way beyond, at the Capo Guagnerola, is a beautiful semicircle of reddish rocks covered with trees at the base. Farther E. by the Golo this forest road joins the forest road No. 9 to Francardo (p. 18).

Having crossed the Col de Castellaccio, 850 feet, and passed through the villages of Partinello and Vitriccia, 20 m. from Galeria, we arrive at

CALVI
AJACCIO 51 51 PORTO (Inn: H. Padoram), occupying a pleasant and sheltered situation at the head of a fine gulf, with a climate rivalling that of Ajaccio. Most of the timber from the forests of Valdoniello and Perticato is shipped here. For Porto to Ponte Francardo, see p. 18.

The road from Porto to La Piana (map, p. 20) affords a delightful 17 drive, and exhibits good engineering. It is cut for a considerable distance through the rocks and cliffs and tall jagged peaks, like cypresses turned into stone, standing on the edge of this savage coast, parts of which are truly splendid. As the ascent is slowly continued, charming views disclose themselves, and on each side of the road the eye discerns some new beauty to dwell upon. At the Col Geneparo, to the right are the ruins of the castle of the Colonnas di Leca, rising boldly above the sea and surrounded and protected by magnificent natural battlements and pinnacles. Six miles from Porto, after having passed the Cols of Geneparo and Mezzano, both about 1250 feet, the traveller reaches

La Piana.

CALVI
AJACCIO 58 44 LA PIANA, 1587 feet, pop. 1280. Inn: H. France. Delightfully situated, with a fine sea-view. From the Col San Martino, 1 m. from La Piana and 1630 feet above the sea, the landscape undergoes a rapid change. The magnificent rocks become parched and arid and the grass as yellow as the soil where it tries to grow.

Cargésé.

CALVI
AJACCIO 70 32 CARGÉSÉ, pop. 1100. Inn: H. de Voyageurs. A large village at the foot of a hill which slopes down to the sea. It was founded by a colony of 730 Greeks, who, fleeing from the oppression of the Turks, arrived and settled here, by the permission of the Genoese, in March 1676. For having refused to aid Paoli in 1755 against the Genoese their villages were burnt to the ground, and they themselves had to seek refuge in Ajaccio. After the cession of Corsica to the French in 1769 M. de Marbœuf had the village and church of Cargese built for the colonists, when they all returned. Greek is still spoken in the village, and it has a Greek as well as a Romanist priest.

Sagona.

CALVI
AJACCIO 79 23 SAGONA, pop. 100. The port of Vico. It contains a few houses, one of which is the inn, where beds, bread, eggs, coffee and wine can be had. On the beach are generally large logs brought down from the forests for shipment. Junction with road to Vico 9¼ miles E. (see p. 23), and also with the road extending 19 miles E. to the forest of Aïtone, passing by the Col Vico, 7½ m., 1607 ft.; Poggio, 12½ m.; the Col Sevi, 3612 ft., 13¼ m.; Cristinacce, 16½ m.; and the Col Lacciola, 3040 ft. in the forest. Five and a half miles from Sagona are the cold sulphurous springs of Caldanella; efficacious as a tonic.

CALVI
AJACCIO 87½ 14½ CALCATOGGIO, pop. 670. A poor village on a hill above the road. From this the diligence shortly after commences the ascent of the Col Sebastien, 1344 feet, 12 miles from Ajaccio. After the Col Sebastien, the road having passed over the Col Staggiola, 930 feet, within a short distance of Appietto, situated on a hill; reaches

CALVI 102 AJACCIO, 102 miles south-west from Calvi.

18

##### Porto to the Ponte Francardo.

###### 50 miles north-east. Map, p. 20.

This important forest road traverses the region of the highest mountains and of the greatest forests, passes through Albertacce, and by the other villages of the Canton of Calacuccia, and then proceeds to Francardo by the defile of the Golo.

Porto to Evisa, 13¾ m., by an excellent carriage road wending through most picturesque mountain scenery. The road, after following the course of the Porto, crosses the stream Onda, ascends the ravine of the Cario, which it crosses 3 m. from Porto under the Capo Polmonaccia, 5627 ft. It now winds its way round little valleys into the narrow gorge of the Porto between dark red cliffs crowned with pinnacles. Nine m. from Porto is the ramification of the mule-path to Chidazzo, and ½ m. farther the ramification to Marignano. The road, after passing the chapelle S. Cyprien, enters Evisa, pop. 1000; Inn: *H. Carrara; 2770 ft., on a high promontory projecting in the centre of a mountain-girt basin from the central range between two deep gulfs hollowed out to a depth of 2000 ft. Behind it rise pine forests to a broad mountain crest, the pass of the Niolo.

Evisa is admirably situated for excursions. A difficult winding path leads in 2½ hours down to the great walls of the dark granite ravine called the Spelunca, at the confluence of the Aïtone with the Porto. Rambles and drives into the forest of Aïtone, from which unfortunately the old stately pines have disappeared.

Evisa to Albertacce, 18 m. E. The road traverses the forest of Aïtone with its vigorous beeches and young pines (Pinus laricio), whose stems are clear of branches from 80 to 100 ft. It is watered by the Porto and numerous brawling streams; which rush down steep ravines covered with moss and ferns. In the forest, 3 m. from Evisa, by this road, is the Maison forestière d’Aïtone, where those provided with introductions, see p. 41, will find pleasant headquarters for grand excursions and fishing and botanical expeditions. 1¼ m. farther is the house of the road menders (Cantonniers) of Tagnone; where lodging can also be had.

The road having made several detours to get round the heads of ravines, ascends the Col de Vergio 4803 ft. on the great mountain chain separating the valley of the Golo from the valley of the Porto. About 230 ft. above the Col on the Cricche ridge, a little to the W., is an admirable view of Mt. Tafonato, 7687 ft., almost due N., with a strange natural tunnel through the summit. From Mt. Cuculla, 6733 ft., nearly 1¾ hours W. from the Col is a still better view of Tafonato, and besides a sight of Mt. Cinto, the valley of the Golo and the mountain range of Monte Rotondo. A little beyond the summit of the Col is the Maison de Cantonniers de Castellaccio, whence there is a good view of the forest of Valdoniello, 11,483 acres, containing besides many large pines very fine specimens of beeches, birches and alders. The felling of the trees in this forest commenced in 1863.

After arriving at the Maison forestière de Sciattarina 10½ m. from 19 Evisa, the road passes by some of the finest trees, and descends into the valley of the Golo; which has its source in a ravine between Mts. Tafonato and Paglia-Orba.

Four and a half miles farther is the Maison forestière de Popaja, 3468 ft., 15 m. from Evisa and 3 m. from Albertacce. Either this house or the former, make good quarters for exploring the forest.

Two miles farther is the Ponte Alto, 2740 ft.; where the road crosses the Golo and enters the pastoral country of the Niolo; now called the canton of Calacuccia, comprehending the villages of Albertacce, Calacuccia, Corscia, Lozzi, and Casamaccioli.

From near the bridge a mule path of 1¾ m. ascends to Casamaccioli, 2780 ft., pop. 550; whence the continuation leads in 7 hours to Corté by the Bocca la Croce, the Melo forest, and the valley of the Tavignano.

Albertacce.—Monte Cinto.

Albertacce, 18 m. from Evisa, 2845 ft., pop. 1000, a dirty village amidst chestnut and walnut trees; where a good deal of coarse linen and Corsican cloth is woven. It is one of the places whence the ascent is made of Monte Cinto, 8892 ft., in 7 hours, and in about 6 for the descent. The path ascends by Calasima, 3610 ft., to the height of 5251 ft. After this the course extends almost horizontally in a western direction across ridges, ascending by gradations more or less fatiguing.

When about 7720 ft., and having climbed nearly 6 hours, a cave is passed where shelter can be had. The remainder of the ascent is comparatively easy. The view is grand, Monte Falo, 8363 ft., being the most prominent object. The ascent cannot be made till the beginning of summer on account of the snow.

Lake Nino.

To Lake Nino, 5598 ft., the source of the Tavignano in 5 hours. From the lake a mule path chiefly by the left bank of the Tavignano, leads in 6½ hours to Corté, through magnificent forests.

Around the lake are some shepherds huts; where rest and refreshment can be had, but no further supply of food can be counted on between the lake and Corté. The lake, full of fish, lies in a hollow between high mountains, the highest being Mt. Retto, 6592 at the western end.

Albertacce to Ponte Francardo, 18 m. N.E. The road follows the Golo. To the left, a road 1¼ m., leads up to Lozzi, pop. 1050. 2½ m. from Albertacce is Calacuccia, 2779 ft. pop. 860, and 2 m. farther, another byeroad ascends to Corscia, 2913 ft., pop. 1000, about 5 hours walk S. from Asco, whence also Mt. Cinto may be ascended by the valley of the Asco called also Stranciacone. Asco is 5 hours from Olmi Capella by the Stranciacone, its affluent the Tassinella, and the Col de Petrella, 6440 ft., to the S. of Mt. Corona, 7032 ft.

Near the chapel of S. Pancrazio, 2786 ft., 4 m. from Albertacce is the commencement of the Scala di Santa Regina, as this part of road is called, cut in the face of perpendicular cliffs rising from the bed of the Golo. About half way are the small chapel and inn of Santa Regina, and the cave which in former times used to be the stronghold of robbers.

20

Thirteen miles from Albertacce is the Pont du Diable, 1083 ft., where four roads meet. The road southwards or to the right leads to Corté, 7 m. S. by Castirla and Soveria, and the Col of Oninanda, 2155 ft., between cliffs rising 1720 ft. above it.

Asco.

The road leading northwards extends to the beautiful highway between Ponte alla Leccia and Calvi; by Castiglione 3¼ m., pop. 550, at the foot of Mt. Traunato, 7186 ft., Popolasca, 7 m., pop. 200, with beautiful red granite pinnacles, and Moltifao 12 m., pop. 1050, with Inn, consisting of a group of villages, clustered on the slopes of the ridge which separate the valley of the Tartagine from the Asco. The byeroad S.W. from Moltifao leads up the highly picturesque valley of the Asco, with magnificent forest trees, to the village of Asco, pop. 950, a group of hamlets seldom visited, although one of the best points from which to make the ascent of Mt. Cinto.

Ponte Francardo.

The road leading 5 m. N.E. by the Golo extends to the Ponte Francardo, where the rail may be taken. See p. 9 and General Map.

Corsica Western Central Region
— larger view —

##### Calvi to Corté or to Bastia.

###### See General Map.

By Ponte alla Leccia. The finest part of the road is between Calvi and the Col Colombano. “If I were to permit myself to dwell in detail on the exquisite variety and charm of the drive, especially after quitting the route forestière a little E. of the hamlet of Palasca, I should wander far from the main purpose of this paper. Valery, Gregorovius, Lear and others have done justice to its wonderful beauty, and the last truly remarks that ‘those who visit Corsica without going through upper Balagne remain ignorant of one of its finest divisions,’ adding, ‘no description can exaggerate the beauty of this remarkable tract of mountain background and deep valley, which for richness of foreground, cheerful fertility and elegance of distance may compete with most Italian landscapes.’ The district is densely peopled—at least twelve large villages are situated on the road itself between Belgodere and Lumio, a distance of 21 miles—and picturesque hamlets with lofty campanili perch high up on the mountain slopes or crown the summits of the lower hills, whilst everywhere there is the richest culture and most varied produce, and the charm of the picture is completed by continually varying views over ‘bowery hollows crowned with summer sea.’”—F. F. Tuckett, Alpine Club.

The Olive Tree.

CALVI
CORTÉ 61 CALVI. The road skirts the coast as far as Lumio, 6 m. from Calvi, whence it commences to ascend gradually by an admirably engineered road round the undulations of olive-clad mountains, disclosing at every turn a different view of the fertile valley of Balagna, extending from the distant mountains to the blue waters of the Mediterranean. It is said that there is no district throughout the whole of Italy where the olive attains such a size as in this valley. Of the tree there are three varieties, the Sabine (Sabinacci), the Saracen (Saraceni), 21 and the Genoese (Genovesi), the most common of all, and is ascribed to the Genoese, who during the government of Agostino Doria compelled the Corsicans to plant olives in great numbers.

After passing the picturesquely situated village of Lavatoggio, 9 m.; the Col Cesario, 1200 ft., 10½ m.; the villages of Feliceto, inn, pop. 640, 16¼ m.; Castor, 24 m.; Speloncato; Ville di Paraso, pop. 750; Occhiatana, and many more perched on the surrounding mountain tops, or nestling in nooks among olive and chestnut trees, the diligence arrives at

Belgodere.

CALVI
CORTÉ 26¾ 34¼ BELGODERE 1017 feet, pop. 950, commanding the finest view of this beautiful valley, its orchards, fields and mountains undulating towards the blue sea. The diligence just remains long enough to give time to run through the gate and up the narrow dirty street to the top of the rock on which the houses are clustered, and there to take a rapid glance at the lovely scene around and underneath. After the gate, the diligence halts at the post-office, and then moves on a few yards towards the stables, where the horses are changed.

Capella.—Tartagine Forest.

##### Forest Road from Belgodere to the Forest of Tartagine.

From Belgodere, Route Forestière, No. 3, leads down to the small port of Losari, 6 miles N. from Belgodere and 4½ E. from the Ile Rousse. A continuation of the same route southward extends to the bridge across the Tartagine, 2355 feet, 25 miles from the Ile Rousse, in the great forest of Tartagine. It passes the Bocca Campana, 2782 feet, 3¼ miles from Belgodere; the Bocca Croce, 3045 feet, the culminating part of the road, 7 miles from Belgodere; and 2½ miles farther, the hamlets of Olmi and Capella, 9 miles from Speloncato; with ever-varying mountain and village scenes among great forests; 20 m. from Belgodere is the Pont Tartagine in the forest of that name. The forest of Tartagine, enclosed within the high crests of the Capo Dente 6667 ft. on the west, and of Mt. Padro on the east, measures 7166 acres, and contains principally the Pinus laricio and the P. pinaster, intermingled with ilexes or evergreen oaks (p. 41).

“Olmi-Capella 2723 ft. is in an open airy situation, commanding fine views of the mountains to the S. and S.W., and protected to some extent on the N. and N.W. by the ridge which sweeps round to the head of the Tartagine valley. This ridge, though in the neighbourhood of the village only about 1000 ft. above the sloping plateau on which it is built, rises to the W. into the peaks of Monte Tolo 4370 ft., Monte San Parteo 5512 ft., Monte Cineraggia 5286 ft., Monte Grosso 6227 ft., Punta Radiche 6595 ft., Capo al Dente 6667 ft., and Monte Corona 7031 ft. The N. slope of this ridge is very steep, and commands most magnificent views of the Haute Balagne and the sea beyond, whilst it is traversed by numerous passes which afford charming scenery. Besides the route forestière, which crosses the Col de Bocca 22 Croce 3048 ft., and by which the timber of the forest of Tartagine is conveyed to Ile Rousse for shipment, several mule-paths connect Olmi Capella much more directly with Ville and Speloncato by the Bocca Battaglia 3550 ft., and Bocca Croce d’Ovo 3629 feet; with Feliceto by the Bocca Pianile 5033 ft.; with Zilia and Calvi by the Bocca di Cineraggia 4698 ft.; with Calenzana by the Bocca Bianca 6155 ft., with Calenzana or the Val Ficarella by the Bocca di Tartagine 6093 ft.; and with the head of the valley of Asco by the Bocca de l’Ondella 6086 ft.”—F. F. Tuckett, Alpine Club.

Palasca.

CALVI
CORTÉ 28¾ 32¼ PALASCA pop. 550. Situated lower down than the high road and the last village on this side of the

CALVI
CORTÉ 31½ 29½ COL DE SAN COLOMBANO 2625 feet above the sea. The view though more vast is less distinct, presenting a succession of mountain-tops, between which are dimly seen valleys with the sea in the distance. The diligence now descends into the narrow, rocky vale of the Navaccia, an affluent of the Tartagine, which enters the Golo a little above the important bridge called the

Ponte alla Leccia.

CALVI
CORTÉ 46¾ 14¼ PONTE ALLA LECCIA. Inn at station. Here take rail for Corté (see p. 8) or for Bastia, 29 miles N.E. (see p. 10). The Ponte Nuovo is distinctly seen from the station. The two small houses near the railway bridge, on the S. side of the Golo, were Paoli’s headquarters during the battle (see pp. 9 and 39).

CALVI 61 CORTÉ, see page 8.

##### Ajaccio to Vico and Evisa.

###### 33 miles north; time 7 to 8 hours; fare 4 frs.

AJACCIO
VICO 33 AJACCIO. At about two miles from the town the diligence commences the ascent of the low Col of Stileto, passing the aqueduct for the Gravona water. On the left hand are the granite quarries whence the large slabs were taken for the monument to Napoleon in the Place d’Armes, as well as the long blocks for the pillars of the Marseilles cathedral. To the right are the village of Appietto, pop. 700, on a hill and the great cliff Monte Gozzi, 656 feet high.

AJACCIO
VICO 12 21 Summit of the COL ST. SEBASTIEN, 1344 feet above the sea, commanding a lovely prospect of the Bays of Liscia, Sagona and Cargésé, and of the valley of Cinarca, with its villages and vineyards. At the foot of the Col is a small inn called Le Repos des Voyageurs, where bread and wine and capital sea-urchins can be had. They are eaten raw, and taken out of the shell by cutting it in two horizontally.

23

23 10 SAGONA junction with road to Calvi, 79 miles N. (see p. 17).

AJACCIO
VICO 31 2 Summit of the COL ST. ANTOINE, 1488 feet. Near the top, at some distance to the left, is the village of Balogna, pop. 600, while in front is seen the splendid range of the Monte Rotondo, among which the most conspicuous is La Sposata, at the head of wooded valleys.

The road to the left or N. leads to Evisa, 18 miles from Vico, pop. 1000, and 2770 feet above the sea. Hotel: Carrara, a comfortable house, where vehicles may be hired. Evisa is charmingly situated on the confines of the forest of Aïtone, containing 3,749 acres. Beyond Aïtone, or 11 miles from Evisa, is the large forest of Valdoniello, 11,483 acres. These forests, instead of extending monotonously on large plains, plunge into deep valleys, or creep up the sides of high mountains.

From Evisa descend to Porto (see p. 18).

Vico.

AJACCIO 33 VICO pop. 2020. Inns: France, where the diligence stops; Voyageurs; Univers. Most picturesquely situated in the valley of the Liamone, surrounded by steep mountains covered with apple, peach, chestnut, walnut, olive and oak trees. On the opposite side of the valley is the large whitewashed convent of St. Francis, with terraced garden shaded by tall magnolias, beautifully placed on a thickly-wooded bank, above which is seen the small hamlet of Nessa. It is a favourite summer resort of the élite of Ajaccio, who revel here on carpets of cyclamen, violets, and a profusion of other wild flowers, in the shade of the dense foliage of the chestnut groves around.

Baths of Guagno.

Seven and a half miles from Vico up the wooded vale of the Liamone and by the Bridges of Silvani and Belfiori, the village of Murzo and the Col de Sorro, are the Baths of Guagno, with hot, sulphurous springs, resembling in their properties those of Bareges in the Pyrenees (see Black’s South France). From May to September they are much frequented, when a coach runs between Vico and Guagno. Time, 2 hours; fare, 3 frs. Coaches can be hired at Vico for Evisa. Charge, 10 frs.

##### Ajaccio to Sartène.

###### 53 m. S. by diligence, over a hilly road; 13 hrs.

AJACCIO
SARTÈNE 53 AJACCIO. The most comfortable way to go to Sartène is to take the steamer to Propriano, only 8 miles N. from Sartène, and there to await the daily coach. The diligence from Ajaccio, after having crossed the rivers Gravona, Prunelli, Agnone, Vergajolo and Margone, and the pass of Campolaccio, 843 feet, arrives at

Cauro.

AJACCIO
SARTÈNE 12½ 40½ CAURO or CAVRO, 1180 ft. Inn. Coach to Bastelica. Pop. 700. A straggling mountain village, commanding extensive views.

24

##### Cauro to Bastelica.

12 m. northwards by “Courrier” by a charming forest road, which after crossing the Else at the Pont Zipitoli, 7 m. from Cauro, enters the defile of the Prunelli at the Col de Menta, about 2 m. from Bastelica.

The road from Cauro crosses the Col Torro, 1394 ft., 1½ m. Four miles, the col and bridge S. Alberto, 1710 ft. whence a road ramifies 7½ m. S. to S. Maria-Siché and Grossetto. On the right side of the road a waterfall descends from the crest of the Usciolo. Large oaks and chestnut trees with ilexes and pines are now seen. 7 m. here a short branch road leads to a maison forestière surrounded by large trees, at the foot of Mt. Mantelluccio, 5515 ft. A little farther a road ramifies 4½ m. by the wild and beautiful valley of the Else into the forest of Ponteniello, and where it ends a mule path commences to Frasseto, pop. 750, on the coach road between Ajaccio and the baths of Guitera. 7½ m. the Zipitoli bridge across the Else, a short way above its junction with the Prunelli. On the right side of the river is the Maison de Cantonniers of Zipitoli.

8 m. The Col Crichetto, 2380 ft., and nearly 3 m. farther the Col Menta, 2458 ft., from which the road descends to the Prunelli and continues by its banks to

Dominicacci.

Bastelica, pop. 4000, inn, 2400 ft., consisting of a group of hamlets, none of which bears the name of Bastelica. Sampiero was born in the one called Dominicacci, between Stazzona and Costa, at the end of the 15th cent., and killed by the Ornanos in the defile of the Prunelli on the 17th January 1567. The house which stands on the site of the one he lived in bears an epitaph to his memory, placed by “William Wyse, Irish Roman Catholic, nephew of Napoleon the Great.”

Mt. Renoso.

Among the many pleasant excursions is the ascent of Mt. Renoso, 7733 ft., 5½ hrs. N.E.

In summer men go up every day with mules for frozen snow. There are lakes on the south and east sides of the mountain, and some fine velvety swards. Map, p. 27.

Five miles beyond Cauro, the Sartène road attains the summit of the Col St. Georges, 2500 ft., commanding a fine prospect of the surrounding country, and afterwards descends to the valley of Ornano, the native land of Vanina, traversed by the Taravo.

AJACCIO
SARTÈNE 20 33 APA whence a Route Departamentale extends 18 m. N.E. to the baths of Guitera and Zicavo. Maps, pp. 1 and 27.

##### Ajaccio to Zicavo and the Baths of Guitera.

Baths of Guitera.

8¼ hrs. by coach and 39 m. from Ajaccio by the Apa mill, 1841 ft., then by the slopes of the Punta del Castello, 2674 ft., through a charming country, to S. Maria-Siché, 2 m. from Apa, inn where coach stops, pop. 800. An old lofty building here of granite, with the remains of towers blackened by age, was the birthplace of the unfortunate 25 Vanina, strangled by Sampiero, p. 39. The ruins of the chateau he built for himself in 1554, after his house had been destroyed, are seen on a hill to the left of the road. Coaches for Ajaccio, Guitera, Zicavo, and Propriano. 4½ m. from Apa at Campo, pop. 390, the road describes a great circuit to get round the head of the defile of the torrent of Frasseto, an affluent of the Taravo. 1¼ m. farther is Frasseto, pop. 740. When about 2770 feet high there is, through an opening, a superb view extending to the sea by the valley of the Frasseto. 8 m. from Apa is the Col de Granace,B* 2713 ft., with a splendid view. Zecavo, 10 m., 2238 ft., pop. 510, on an affluent of the Taravo. Then rounding the buttresses of the Sposata, 3288 ft., enter the village of Corrano, 12 m., pop. 470, in a lovely situation. 14½ m. from Apa and 34½ from Ajaccio are the hot sulphurous springs of Guitera, with hotel, 1437 ft., on the right bank of the Taravo, an excellent trout stream. Coach to and from Ajaccio during the season, from May to September. Pleasantly situated among cork oaks and banks covered with the Osmunda fern. The road from the Baths of Guitera up to Zicavo, 3½ m., follows for about 1 m. the Taravo till its union with the torrent from Mt. Coscione, whence it climbs up through the gorge to

Zicavo.—Mt. Incudine.

Zicavo, pop. 1500, hotel, 2385 ft., charmingly situated, overlooking the valley of the Taravo, 38 m. by coach from Ajaccio. From Zicavo the ascent is made of Monte Incudine, 7008 ft., in 6 hrs. Mules can be employed to within ½ hr. of summit. Although not difficult, guide and mule are advisable, if for nothing else than to assist in fording the streams. After having passed the chapel of S. Roch, ascend a steep mule path, right, among the largest and best formed chestnut trees in the island, then rounding Mt. Buchino, 3623 ft., among ilexes, and Mt. Occhiato, 5749 ft., covered with beech trees, ascend southwards by a wooded ravine between great rocks. Between 2 and 3 hrs. the Pastures of the plain of Coscione, with many shepherds’ huts, are reached, whence Mt. Incudine is seen. After leaving this the path becomes very bad, over loose stones and across troublesome torrents. These are succeeded by an annoying thick coppice of alders, and then the Col de Cheralba, 6345 ft., is ascended, in about 5½ hrs. from starting. The mules are left here, and the ascent is made by the western flank, taking care to make the guide understand that the highest peak is wanted, and not the Rocher de l’Incudine.

Nelson.

“The view is probably the most beautiful in Corsica—a vast panorama full of variety. Steep pine clad hills sink abruptly into the eastern sea; glens open southward on a rich glowing valley; the blue depths of the bays are fringed with an edging of white sand and green water. The great granite aiguilles of the forest of Bavella, a strange array of horns and pinnacles, run across the foreground; to the left the long fiord of Porto Vecchio stretches far into the land; while in the centre of the picture are spread out the broad Straits of Bonifacio, studded with pale isles and islets. On the left is Caprera, the home of the liberator of the Two Sicilies. The one beside it, Maddalena, is linked with even greater memories—Nelson and Napoleon. Under its lee, in a bay which 26 Nelson christened ‘Agincourt Sound,’ the British fleet lay for months before the battle of the Nile, watching for the French squadron sheltered behind the guns of Toulon. Two silver candlesticks on the altar of the village church record Nelson’s gratitude for the friendly services of the inhabitants. It was in attacking this same village that Napoleon, in 1793, first saw fire. For mountain views the Alpine clubman is spoilt, but for sea views, and they are not less beautiful, he must go far, perhaps as far as Greece, to find such another.”—D. F. Freshfield, Alpine Club. See map on fly-leaf.

AJACCIO
SARTÈNE 21 32 GROSSETO 1476 feet, pop. 600; 4½ hours by diligence from Ajaccio. A little beyond the inn is the church, sheltered by large ilex trees, which grow to a great height in this neighbourhood.

AJACCIO
SARTÈNE 30 23 BICCHISANO 350 feet, pop. 1800, where the passengers dine. The diligence then passes the villages of Petreto and Cassalabriva, pop. 300, and shortly afterwards reaches the summit of the Col Celaccia, 1910 feet, about 2½ m. E. from Sollacaro, pop. 800, where Boswell visited Paoli. Sollacaro is not on the highroad.

Olmeto.

AJACCIO
SARTÈNE 39 14 OLMETO pop. 1650, hotel. On a hill, with an extensive view. In the neighbourhood, on Monte Buttareto, are the ruins of the castle of Arrigo della Rocca. No more beautiful sight than that of Olmeto can be pictured. Immediately below the town the ground dips steeply down, covered with corn or turf; or in terraces of vineyard, varied with large groups of fine olive trees stretching down to the shore. Above the village a vast growth of vegetation climbs the heights. Among huge masses of granite are tangles of every shrub the island produces, the wild olive or oleaster being one of the most elegant; while every part of the heights close to the town abounds with little picture subjects, with a clear blue sky for a background.

The road now descends to the coast, and after crossing the Baracci, near the hot sulphurous mineral baths of Baracci, arrives at

Propriano.

AJACCIO
SARTÈNE 44½ 8½ PROPRIANO pop. 1000. H. France. Every Saturday a steamer arrives from Ajaccio, and returns on the Monday morning. Another steamer twice weekly between this and Ajaccio. Near the bridge over the Rizzanèse, are the two Celtic monuments called the Stazione del’ Diavolo.

##### Propriano to Solenzara.

Two and a half miles beyond the bridge commences the Route Forestière, No. 4, leading to Solenzara, 42½ m. N.E. This road ascends by the Rizzanese to S. Lucia di Tallano, whence eastward to Levie, 1970 ft.; and thence Zonza, 2586 ft. The road afterwards ascends N.E. by a picturesque ravine to the Col Bavella, 3965 ft.; whence after descending to the Maison Cantonniere, 1476 ft., it crosses the Col Larone, 2013; whence it descends by a winding road partly by the banks of the Fiumicello and partly by the R. Solenzara to Solenzara (see p. 36).

27 Shortly after crossing the Rizzanese the diligence commences the long ascent to Sartène, disclosing views of the great valley below and of the splendid snowy heights of the long range of mountains opposite, terminating in the lofty regions of the great Monte Incudine, 7008 ft.

Sartène.

AJACCIO 53 SARTÈNE 1000 feet; pop. 6010; Inns: Commerce: Univers. Coaches daily to and from Ajaccio, Bonifacio and Santa Lucia di Tallano. Old Sartène is a town of narrow streets approached by a fine bridge, whence the whole valley is seen down to the Gulf of Valinco. It still retains some towers and parts of the walls erected in the 16th century. The houses are built of rough, dark gray granite, with steep stone steps leading up to the main entrance, and odd Italian chimneys, some in the shape of pillars with curious capitals, others in the form of towers or obelisks. The houses bordering the Nouvello Traverse and the streets leading into the “Place” form the new town.

Corsica, Central Region
— larger view —

##### Sartène to Corté by Vivario,

###### up the centre of the island. Maps, pp. 1 and 27.

This grand mountain road, No. 196 bis, extends from Sartène, 73 m. N. to the Ajaccio and Corté road, which it joins at the 60 kilometres-stone, on the Col Serra, ½ mile from Vivario. All the diligences between Ajaccio and Corté halt at the inn of Vivario (p. 8).

S. Lucia di Tallano.

After leaving Sartène the road crosses the Fiumicicoli and ascends the valley of the Rizzanese to Loreto, 12 m., and Cargiaca 15 m. N. from Sartène 1302 ft.; grand view. Near Loreto is S. Lucia di Tallano, 1270 ft., with a quarry of a beautiful amphibole, a variety of hornblende. The ground colour is grayish blue sprinkled with white and margined with black spots (see p. 37).

Zicavo.

From Cargiaca the road enters the valley of the Coscione and ascends through the ilex forest of Taca amidst towering mountains and vertical cliffs by the villages of Zerubia and Aullene, 2736 ft., pop. 1100; inn; 21 m. N. from Sartène. It now crosses the Coscione, 3492 ft., then the Col Vaccia, 3898 ft., and descends by the Col d’Alisandri, 3426 ft., to Zicavo, 2445 ft., with an inn, 17 m. from Aullene, 3½ m. E. from the baths of Guitera, 38 m. N. from Sartène and 37 m. S. from Vivario.

From the Bocca Tinzole a road ramifies N.W. to Olivese 1460 ft., pop. 700, in the valley of the Taravo, 7 m. from Guitera by a beautiful road.

From Zicavo the road crosses the Col San Francesco, 1969 ft., to Cozzano, 40 m., pop. 900, and enters the valley of the Taravo, which it ascends by the east bank between two great mountain chains, the culminating point of the western chain being Mt. Don Giovanni 6405 ft., and that of the eastern Pointe Capella 6706 ft.

28 Three and a quarter miles up the valley from Cozzano a wheel road leads 1½ m. E. to the Maison Forestière of St. Antoine, whence a mule path by the Col de Rapara, 5557 ft., extends to Isolaccio and the hot baths of Pietrapola, p. 8, by a picturesque road through a beautiful part of the forest.

Four and a half miles above Cozzano is the Col Scrivano, 2959 ft., whence a mule path leads across the valley to Palneca, pop. 1050, on the wooded slopes of Mt. Pietra Cinta, 4958 ft.

A little below the summit of the Col is the Maison de Cantonniers de Scrivano.

Nine and a half miles N. from Zicavo is the bridge Argentuccia, fronting a grand semi-circle of mountains covered with noble trees. This is the commencement of the real Verde forest.

Eleven and three quarter miles from Zicavo is the Maison de Cantonniers de Ghiraldino, 3936 ft., 49 m. N. from Sartène, 2 m. S. from the Col Verde and 5 m. S. from the House of Refuge of Marmano. A little beyond the house a wheel road, left, descends into one of the finest parts of the Verde forest.

Col Verde.

Thirteen and three quarter miles from Zicavo and 51 m. from Sartène is the Col Verde, 4290 ft., with, nearly a mile distant, the Maison de Cantonniers de Marmano. Below is the forest of Marmano, with its best trees cut down, and in the neighbourhood the sources of the rivers Taravo, 5678 ft., at the Col Tisina, of the Fium Orbo, 3783 ft. under a mountain a little to the N. of the Col Verde, and of the Prunelli, 4790 ft., among a group of high mountains to the W. The Vecchio rises from the springs on Mt. Oro.

Refuge de Marmano.

Seventeen miles from Zicavo and 54 m. from Sartène is the Refuge de Marmano, 3182 ft., beautifully situated. Here was formerly the summer station of the Casabianda penitentiary. The escaped criminals committed such outrages that the government at the repeated petitioning of the shepherds were obliged to withdraw it. Finally Casabianda was abandoned also, and the prisoners removed to the neighbourhood of Ajaccio, where they could be well looked after.

Food and lodging may be obtained at the Maison Forestière, or 1¼ m. farther at the Maison de Cantonniers de Canareccia, 2760 ft., in the rocky defile of the Fium Orbo. Between this and Ghisoni, 6 m., 3 bridges and 2 low Cols are crossed. At the second bridge, the Pont de Casso, 4½ m. from Ghisoni, are seen the great pinnacles or needles and lofty cliffs of Albuccia Point or Kyrie Eleison, 4935 ft.

From the Canaraccia the road winds its way northward along the 29 flanks of mountains sloping down to the Orbo, which it leaves shortly before reaching

Ghisoni.—Col Sorba.

Ghisoni, pop. 1740, 2160 ft., 62 m. N. from Sartène, 12 m. S. from Vivario, 8 m. N. from the House of Refuge, and 24 m. N. from Zicavo. Four m. N. from Ghisoni the road crosses the Col Scozzolatojo, 3916 ft., and 2 m. farther the Col Sorba, 4310 ft., 6 m. S. from Vivario, see p. 8. The descent from the Col Sorba into Vivario is very striking. It is effected by excessively sharp zigzags through a noble pine forest. Between the branches tower the bold forms of Monte d’Oro, Monte Rotondo, and, in the distance, behind the uplands of Corté, the crags of Monte Traunato.

The best resting-places on this road are Zicavo, 39 m. S.E. from Ajaccio, from which it is approached by a diligence; and the pleasant village of Ghisoni, where there is a very fair inn. At Vivario there is the Hotel Voyageurs. Guides and carriages should be hired either at Sartène or Vivario, 20 frs. per day.

##### Ghisoni to Ghisonaccia.

###### 18 m. S.E. Maps, pp. 1 and 27.

By the Forest road No. 5, cut for nearly 11 m. in the face of the steep cliffs which enclose the Orbo. As this road in all the dangerous parts is hardly 11 ft. wide, it is necessary to ascertain before starting in a vehicle, the position of the carts conveying the logs, and to arrange accordingly.

The road descends from Ghisoni to the Pont de Regolo, 2077 ft., where it crosses the Casapietrone, and then follows the course of the Fium Orbo, crosses the Ruello Bridge 1450 ft., and enters the Salto della Sposata 4½ m. from Ghisoni, where the river flows in a narrow bed between vertical precipices, some more than 1200 ft. high.

L’Inzecca.

The road, chiselled out of these cliffs, passes under 3 great portals. From the third is seen, through the great cleft in the rock of Inzecca, the sea at Aleria.

After this the defile opens up to close again between serpentine cliffs. It then crosses the 2 Ponts de Parabuja and the viaduct de l’Inzecca, and reaches the entrance to the Passage de l’Inzecca, 7 m. from Ghisoni, 985 ft. above the sea, where the road is cut through great serpentine rocks. This is the most difficult part for the waggons to pass. Map, p. 27.

The plain now widens, and 8 m. from Ghisoni a branch road leads to Vezzani.

Nine and a quarter miles from Ghisoni is the Col S. Antoine, 355 ft., and 8¾ m. farther is Ghisonaccia, p. 32.

30

##### Sartène to Bonifacio.

###### 33 miles south-east, by diligence; time, 6 hours.

SARTÈNE
BONIFACIO 33 SARTÈNE. The road winds its way through great blocks of granite scattered on a plain studded with shrubby specimens of the ilex, towards the shore of the Golfo di Roccapina, with a fantastically shaped rock called il Leone Coronato. East from the gulf the road passes the village of Pianottoli, 21 m. from Sartène, almost due south from the singular mountain l’Uomo di Cagna, 3980 ft.; then the bridge across the Figari at the head of the Gulf of Figari, 23 m.; the Col de la Testa or Scopeto, 225 ft., 24 m.; and the bridge across the Ventilegni, 27 m. from Sartène, and 6 from Bonifacio.

Bonifacio.

SARTÈNE 33 BONIFACIO pop. 4000. H. du Nord; France in the high town. Diligences leave daily for Bastia, Sartène, and Ajaccio. A steamer arrives every Saturday from Ajaccio and returns on the Monday. Bonifacio was founded in 833 by the Tuscan marquis whose name it bears, to protect this part of the island against the piratical incursions of the Saracens. The high town is built on the top of a limestone rock rising vertically from the sea. The low town occupies one side of the fine natural dock, hemmed in by perpendicular cliffs with an opening of only 328 yards towards the sea. From the steamboat wharf a broad paved series of steps leads up to the high town, entering it through the Porte Vieille. In the old house fronting this Porte or gateway, Charles V., in 1541, stayed two days and a night on his return from his unsuccessful expedition against Algiers. Overtaken by a storm, he had taken refuge in the Gulf of Santa Manza. The door of the house, decorated with an arabesque on marble, is in the narrow side street. In the Place d’Armes are the church of San Domenico, built by the Templars, characterised by its octagonal tower with an embrasured termination; and the great tower “Torrione,” part of the fortifications built by the marquis, and formerly the most important part of the citadel. Near this tower is the flight of steps “Redragon,” cut in the rock by the Genoese, which descends by 202 steps to the sea. The small room over the gateway of the citadel, opposite the house of Charles V., was inhabited by Napoleon for nearly eight months. There are grand sea-views from the ramparts. The town consists of tall, dingy houses, and narrow, steep, and in most cases dirty streets. The promenade of Bonifacio is the small covered terrace before the church of Santa Maria. Here also is the public cistern.

Of the numerous caves which pierce the base of the rock of Bonifacio, the most remarkable one enters from the sea, 214 feet below the 31 Place d’Armes, and extends to an unknown distance. It contains a freshwater lake, which rises and falls with the tide. A staircase with a vaulted roof and consisting of 337 steps leads down to this lake. The water is brought up to the surface by a force pump, is perfectly transparent, with a slight calcareous taste. In the high town there are 39 private and one public cistern, in which the rain water from the roofs is stored up. The low town has a well supplied from a stream by an aqueduct. The afternoon is the best time to visit the caves. A boat for one or party should not cost more than 5 frs. The finest, the Dragonetta, cannot be visited when the sea is rough.

On Monte Pertusato (the south extremity of Corsica), 2 miles S.E. from Bonifacio, is a lighthouse of the first order, 325 feet above the sea. The southern promontory is pierced by a cavern hung with stalactites.

##### Bonifacio to Bastia.

###### 103 miles; diligence to Ghisonaccia, 50 m. N., the rest by rail.

BONIFACIO
BASTIA 103 BONIFACIO. The diligence, after passing the Col Finocchio, 354 feet, 2½ miles N. from Bonifacio, the Maison Francola, 7 miles, the bridge across the Stabiacco, 16 miles, and the Col Mattonara, 17½ miles (whence the Route Forestière, No. 11, ascends 14 miles west into the forest of the Ospedale), arrives in 3 hours at

Porto-Vecchio.

BONIFACIO
BASTIA 27 76 PORTO-VECCHIO, pop. 2740. Hôtel Amis. Surrounded by its old walls, and at the head of a beautiful gulf. The surrounding country is fertile, but unhealthy during the hot weather, on account of the miasma rising from the morasses and lagoons. To the N. of Porto, the mountains still approach near to the sea; but beyond Solenzara (where the diligence halts) 41½ miles from Bonifacio, they recede and leave free those great undulating plains which characterise the eastern coast of Corsica—plains almost uninhabited and covered with heaths. From the north side of the Travo commences a series of large lakes swarming with fish and a kind of cockle. They are separated from the sea by long narrow sandbanks, like earthen break-waters. The malaria prevails from June to October, but even then only the night should be avoided in travelling along this coast. The road after passing by the hamlet of Favona, 33 m., arrives at

Solenzara.

BONIFACIO
BASTIA 45 58 SOLENZARA. Whence a wheel road extends westwards into the forest of Bavella by the Col Bavella 18½ m. S.W., and the Col Scalella, 22 m., 2982 ft. to Zonza, 24½ m. from Solenzara; 4 m. farther is the village of S. Gavino di Carbini, 2292 ft., and other 2½ m. 32 the village of Levie; 30 m. S.W. from Solenzara, and 10½ from Propriano is S. Lucia de Tallano, on the highroad to Aullene (see p. 27), and for continuation of this road to Propriano see p. 26.

The road to Bastia, after passing the Travo, 44 m., Vicchiseri, 46 m., and Casamozza, 48½ m., arrives at the railway station of

Ghisonaccia.

BONIFACIO
BASTIA 53 50 GHISONACCIA pop. 850. On the Fium Orbo, 36 m. S.E. from Corté. From this a department road of 4½ m. leads to the hot sulphurous baths of Pietrapola, with a large hotel in a healthy situation.

From Ghisonaccia a carriage road extends N.W. to the villages of Poggio-di-Nazza, 9½ m., and Lugo-di-Nazza, 11½ m. From Ghisonaccia railway station a forest road extends 18 m. N.W. to Ghisoni, where it joins the high road between Sartène and Vivario (p. 29). The southern prolongation of this road leads to Zicavo, Petreto, Bicchisano, and Portopollo, on the Gulf of Valinco.

Forty-six m. from Bastia is Casabianda. H. Perett; a village situated on a well-cultivated estate belonging to the government; formerly used as an agricultural penitentiary for juvenile criminals. In the hot season it is safer to pass the night at Casabianda than at Aleria.

Aleria.

BONIFACIO
BASTIA 58¼ 44¾ ALERIA. Inn. The capital of Corsica till the invasion of the Saracens in the 4th cent., now a poor village with an old Genoese fort, situated at the mouth of the Tavignano, 1¼ m. from the Etang de Diane. Ancient Aleria, the colony founded by the dictator Sulla about 82 B.C., occupied both banks of the Tavignano, which waters one of the finest plains in the world, where winter is unknown. The site of the town was well selected. The population was probably 20,000.

It was at Aleria that Theodore Neuhoff, a native of Altona, in Germany, landed to have himself proclaimed King of Corsica, March 1736. He died a pauper in London, and was buried in an obscure corner of St. Anne’s churchyard, Soho. On a mural tablet against the exterior wall, west end, is the following epitaph written by Horace Walpole:—“Near this place is interred Theodore, King of Corsica, who died in this parish, Dec. 11, 1756, immediately after leaving the King’s Bench prison, by the benefit of the Act of Insolvency. In consequence of which, he registered his kingdom of Corsica for the use of his creditors.” His capital was Cervione. The lake de Diane is a great sheet of salt water with one narrow opening to the sea. It formed the harbour of Aleria, and was provided with quays, of which a vestige still remains. The lake contains an island 460 yards in circumference, composed of oyster shells covered with luxurious vegetation. Fish, and a cockle a species of Venerupis, inhabit the brackish water of the lake.

33

##### Aleria to Corté.

###### Coach every other day; fare, 5 francs; time, 4 hours.

Thirty-one and a half m. N.W., by a picturesque road up the course of the Tavignano, passing Cateraggio, 2 m., Rotani, 5 m., commencement of bridle path leading N. to Tallone, 7½ m., Tox, 9½ m., Campo, 11 m., and Moïta, 12½ m. Seven m. farther up the main road a ramification extends N. to Giuncaggio, 4½ m., and to Pancheraccia, 5½ m.

Up the main road, 21½ m. from Aleria, and near the bridge across the Vecchio, a bridle path strikes off S. to Rospigliani, 5 m., and Vezzani, 6½ m. A little higher a ramification extends 5 m. W. to Serraggio (p. 8). The road, after passing several other ramifications with the Corté and Ajaccio road, arrives at Corté, p. 8.

Ten m. W. from Aleria are the cold saline sulphurous springs of, 190 ft., considered efficacious in the cure of syphilitic diseases, resembling in this property the water of Aulus in the Pyrenees. See Black’s South France, West Half (Pyrenees).

Prunete.—Cervione.—Alesani.

BONIFACIO
BASTIA 79 24 PRUNETE. Inn: Gaetan. Junction with road to Ponte alla Leccia, 44 m. N.W. (p. 9), leading through a region of chestnut trees and past many villages on the mountains, built chiefly on terraces. A coach runs from the station to Alesani called also Castagneto 1938 ft. 14 m. W.; ascending by Muchieto 808 ft. 3¾ m., Cervione 1073 ft. 4½ m., pop. 1000; Inns: France: Voyageurs: an untidy village, once the capital of King Theodore’s realm. From Cervione the road describes a long detour to the bridge across the Chebbia, whence it ascends to Cotone 1008 ft 6¼ m., the Col d’Aja 1236 ft., and Ortale 1489 ft., 1¾ m. from Alesani. Good red wine is made in the neighbourhood of Cervione. The dirty little village of Castagneto or Alesani is picturesquely situated on the side of a mountain overlooking a valley covered with chestnut trees. The diligence stops at an inn, where bread, eggs and coffee with goats’ milk can be had and a comfortable bed. A char-a-banc from this inn to Piedicroce (Orezza) costs 10 frs., time 2½ hours, 11 miles. For Orezza, see p. 34. Passengers from Prunete to Piedicroce or Stazzona should not stop at Cervione but continue the diligence route to Castagneto, whence start next morning. The drive between Castagneto and Piedicroce, 11 miles, is by far the most beautiful part of the road. The highest part of the Col d’Arcarotta is a narrow ridge between the valleys of Orezza and Ortia, commanding a charming view. See also p. 35.

BONIFACIO
BASTIA 87¼ 24¾ PADULELLA. Four and a quarter miles west by a good road is San Nicolao, pop. 600.

Stazzona.

BONIFACIO
BASTIA 84¼ 18¾ FOLELLI-Orezza station. Junction with road to Piedicroce 14¼ m. S.W.; by the course of the Fium’alto, the Chestnut country, and the village of Stazzona, 13¼ m. from Folelli, ¼ m. from 34 and 355 ft. under Piedicroce, and 1 m. from and 200 ft. above the spring of Orezza. The coach from the station stops at Stazzona, pop. 250. Hotels: *Paix, Casino. Very fine oleanders in the gardens. On the opposite side of the valley of the Fium’alto is Granajola, with the establishment Manfredi, 2016 ft. above the sea and 220 feet above the spring. The hotel Manfredi has the most select society, is the largest house, and its road from the spring is the least dusty; but as no public coach goes there it is necessary to hire a private conveyance either at Stazzona or Piedicroce, 3 or 4 miles. The charge in all the hotels is 7 frs. per day, not including coffee or tea in the morning. The hotels of Stazzona and the hotel Manfredi are the most convenient for the Spa drinkers; those of Piedicroce are too distant.

Orezza.

The Orezza spring is in the centre of a small terrace in the narrow valley of the Fium’alto, whose steep banks are covered with chestnut trees, and ascended by dusty winding roads. The water is a bicarbonate chalybeate, with an agreeable amount of free carbonic acid gas.

Vescovato.

BONIFACIO
BASTIA 89 14 VESCOVATO STATION. Town 1¼ m. W., pop. 1500. *H. de Progreso in the large “Place” where all the coaches stop, near a fountain of pure gushing water, cold even in summer. The rather untidy town of Vescovato is almost hidden in the corner of a valley, 550 ft. above the sea, by woods of vigorous olive and chestnut trees. From it a coach starts daily to Porta, 15 m. W., by a bad, dusty, jolting road, passing through Venzolasca, pop. 1300, on the top of a hill, 732 ft., 1½ m. from Vescovato. Three m. farther a road, left, 1 m., leads to Porri, 1718 ft., pop. 300. 7½ m. from Vescovato is the Col S. Agostino, and then follow, 8 m., Silvareccio, 2198 ft., pop. 550; 8½ m., Piano, 2230 ft., pop. 170; Casabianca, 4 m. farther, 2133 ft.; and then Porta, pop. 630; Inn: H. Franceschi, in the “Place,” opposite the church, where the coach stops. In July and August the coach goes on to Piedicroce.

BONIFACIO
BASTIA 91 12 PONT DU GOLO. A little more than 3 miles from the bridge, at the mouth of the river, stood the town of Mariana, founded by Marius (B. 155, D. 86 B.C.), where Seneca most probably spent his exile, and of which there remain only a few insignificant fragments on the beach. In the vicinity are the ruins of a chapel, and about a mile farther those of the church, called La Canonica, with 2 aisles and a nave 100 feet long and 40 wide, ornamented with rows of pillars of the Doric order. Both church and chapel are in the Pisan style.

At Casamozza Station, 12½ m. S. from Bastia, the Aleria railway joins the one from Corté.

BONIFACIO 103 BASTIA. See p. 10.

##### Ponte alla Leccia to Piedicroce.

Eighteen miles S.E. by “Courrier” daily. Fare 3 frs. Time 5 hours, by a mountain road, making immense circuits round by the 35 heads of ravines among rich pastures and great chestnut and beech trees.

Nine miles from the Ponte is Morosaglia, pop. 1060, with an inn, where the coach stops. A conglomeration of hamlets on the slopes of a mountain, one of which, Stretta, was the birthplace of Pascal Paoli. 2 m. farther is the summit of the Col de Prato with an inn, 3215 ft., 2850 ft. below, or 3 hours from the top of San Pietro, commanding a magnificent view of the Castagniccia or the Chestnut country, and the islands of Monte Christo, Pianosa, and Elba, floating in the haze between sky and water. See map on fly-leaf.

Castagniccia.

The Castagniccia may be said to lie between the Golo and the Tavignano, bounded on the W. by the railway. The chestnut trees are not so famous for their size as for the qualify of their fruit.

The coach having passed the hamlet of Campana arrives at

Piedicroce.

Piedicroce, pop. 600, several inns, 2104 ft., 18 m. from Ponte alla Leccia, and 650 ft. above the spring of Orezza by a winding, dusty, bad wheel road, passing Stazzona 1978 ft. above the sea.

Although Piedicroce is not a suitable place for those who come to drink the Orezza water, it is an excellent centre for excursions, the favourite one being to the top of Monte S. Pietro 5795 ft. in 3 hours, by the cabins of Tajalto 4600 ft., and a beech forest. Mule to nearly the top. Guide and mule, 5 frs. See also above.

Coach in July and August to the Vescovato station by Porta, p. 34.

##### Piedicroce to Prunete Station, 26 m. S.E.

###### The continuation of the road from Ponte alla Leccia.

From Piedicroce the road passes by Pied’Orezza, 2106 ft., 1¾ m. from Piedicroce, Piedipartino, 2124 ft., 2 m.; Carcheto, 2172 ft., 3m.; Brustico, 2293 ft. 4 m.; the Col d’Arcarotta, 2698 ft., 5¼ m. from Piedicroce, between the richly wooded valleys of the Fium’alto and the Alesani, and commanding a very fine view of both. From this the road gradually descends to Prunete, the most beautiful part being from this Col to Castagneto called also Alesani, where there is an inn and whence a coach starts daily to Prunete Railway Station.

Castagneto.

Seven miles from Piedicroce and 2 from the Col is Ortia, 2638 ft., pop. 400, hidden among chestnut trees; Felce, 2570 ft., 8¾ m., pop. 400; Pied Alesani 11 m.; Querceto, 2041 ft., and Castagneto or Alesani, 1938 ft., 12 m. from Piedicroce and 14 from Prunete Railway Station, the principal village in this valley.

A little below Castagneto, at the commencement of this chestnut wooded valley is Ortale, 1489 ft., pop. 280. The coach then having passed Cotone 1008 ft., 19¼ m., pop. 800, and having crossed the little bridge over the stream Chebbia arrives at Cervione, Inn, France: 1073 ft., 21¾ m. from Piedicroce, and 4¼ from Prunete. From Cervione another coach descends to Prunete Railway Station by Muchieto 820 ft. Prunete consists of a few houses near the beach, resorted to by bathers in summer, situated on the highway between Bastia and Bonifacio. See also p. 33.

36

##### Solenzara to Sartène,

46 m. S.W. This forest road, No. 4, ascends the valley of the Solenzara, crosses the great S.E. range at the Col de Bavella, descends into the valley of the Rizzanese, passes through the villages of Zonza, San Gavino, Levie, and Ste. Lucie, and joins the highroad between Ajaccio and Bonifacio at the miles tone 76·690 (47¾ m.) from Ajaccio, 3¾ m. from Sartène, and 42 m. from Solenzara.

The road, after passing up by the S. side of the river through olive groves and “maquis,” arrives at the Col and Maison de Cantonniers de Castelluccio, 210 ft., 4 m. from Solenzara. Two m. farther by the Pont de Ghiadole, the road crosses the Solenzara by the Calzatojo bridge, 6 m. from Solenzara, 340 ft., winds upward by the deep gully of the Fiumicello, which having crossed by the bridge 7¼ m. from Solenzara, ascends a steep winding road bordered with great trees to the Maison de Cantonniers de Rocchio-Pinzuto, 8¾ m., 1060 ft., at the foot of the great cliff of that name.

The road still winding upwards passes the immense wall of reddish cliffs called the Rochers de Bavella before arriving at the Col de Larone10¾ m., 2056 ft. The road, still winding, ascends a huge promontory between the torrents Fiumicello and S. Pietro, separating into two distinct parts the forest of Bavella, and crosses the Pont de Bocintoro, 1510 ft., 12 m. A little farther, in a wild yet beautiful situation, is the Maison de Cantonniers d’Arghiavara. From the Pont 1½ m. is the better house, la maison forestière de l’Alza, commanding superb views, situated among great trees and nursery gardens.

The ascent from this is by a steep road, almost impracticable for vehicles, through a forest of the stateliest and oldest pines in Corsica.

18 m. from Solenzara and 28 from Sartène is the Maison de Cantonniers de Bavella, 3885 ft., near the summit of the Col Bavella, 4068 ft. In this house of refuge there is generally comfortable accommodation and a supply of provisions. The surrounding huts are occupied in July and August by people from the plains about Solenzara, who come here to escape the fever-producing malaria. The house commands, even from the windows, grand views.

On the other side of the Col, 550 ft. below it and 2¼ m. from it, is the Maison de Cantonniers de Ballatojo, from which the road descends amidst great pines mixed with a few oaks and ilexes, in view of the Asinao forest and of the lofty granite pinnacled precipices, 10 m. long, between Mt. Colva, 4520 ft., and the Point Tintinaja, 6658 ft.

Zonza, good inn, pop. 1040, height 2582 ft., 24¼ m. from Solenzara and 21¾ m. from Sartène, hidden among chestnut trees and conveniently situated for visiting the forests of Zonza, Asinao, and Bavella.

37

S. Gavino.

3½ m. beyond is San Gavino di Carbini, pop. 770, height 2238 ft., a poor miserable village, where there existed in 1365 a sect of socialists, with whom even the women and children were held in common, and by whom were committed frightful abominations.

Levie.

30 m. from Solenzara and 16 m. from Sartène is Levie, consisting of various hamlets. Inn where the coach, running between this and Sartène, stops. Pop, 2040, height 2238 ft This village, easily approached, is situated among mountains abounding with game. It commands superb views, and makes in April a very pleasant residence. In winter it is rather cold. On the road between Levie and Santa Lucia di Tallano, 5 ½ m. from the Col d’Aja Vignarsa, 2408 ft., are seen the valley of the Rizzanese and the Gulfs of Valinco and Ajaccio. On the grassy table lands of the Col d’Aja are many rare flowers, among others a species of red gladiolus.

S. Lucia di Tallano.

5½ m. W. from Levie and 11¼ from Sartène is Santa Lucia di Tallano, pop. 1300, Inn where the Sartène and Levie coach stops. S. Lucia is built in terraces on the hills rising from the Fiumicicoli. Church 14th cent. The wines grown in this neighbourhood command good prices in the Corsican market.

Below, on the Fiumicicoli, is a hot sulphurous spring. On the way down to the river by the sides of the Point Campolaccia, near a place called Campolajo, is beautiful hornblende, page 27.

From Santa Lucia the road leads southwards by the Rizzanese to Sartène, p. 27.

#### SKETCH OF THE HISTORY OF CORSICA.

It is not known who the original inhabitants of Corsica were. The Phocæans of Ionia were the first civilised people that established settlements in Corsica. About the year 560 B.C. they landed on the island, and founded at the mouth of the Tavignano the city of Aleria, which after a short occupation they were compelled to abandon. After an interval of a few years they again returned, rebuilt Aleria, which they fortified, and endeavoured to maintain their ground against the natives. After a struggle of some years they were again compelled to leave the island. The next foreign occupants of Corsica were the Tuscans, who founded the city of Nicæa, but they in their turn were compelled to give way before the growing maritime power of the Carthaginians, whose jurisdiction in the island was unquestioned till the beginning of the first Punic War. On that occasion the Romans sent out a fleet, drove the Carthaginians from the island, and exacted 38 at least a nominal homage from the native population. They did not, however, fully establish their power here till about thirty years later, and even then rebellions and revolts were of constant occurrence.

Roman Colonies.

The first step made towards the real subjugation of the island was the establishment of the two colonies on its eastern coast-that of Aleria by Sulla and that of Mariana by Marius. In the time of the emperors the island had fallen into disrepute among the Romans, by whom it was used chiefly as a place of banishment for political offenders. One of the most distinguished of these sufferers was the younger Seneca, who spent in this island eight years of banishment ending with 49 A.D.

Arms.

On the downfall of the Roman empire in the West, Corsica passed into the hands of the Vandals. These barbarians were driven out by Belisarius, but after his death, 565 A.D., the resistless hordes of Attila once more gained possession of the island. Since that period it has successively owned the dominion of the Goths, the Saracens, the Pisans and the Genoese. The impress of the last is to be found in the style of the church architecture, while the armorial crest of the island, a Moor’s head, with a band across the brow, dates from the expedition of the Saracen king, Sanza Ancisa.

The patroness of Corsica, the “Protectrice de la Corse,” is Santa Devota; who is also the patron saint of Monaco. The Corsicans often style the Virgin Mary simply La Santa; and in their common exclamation Santa! Maria is understood.

Sampiero.

Among the most renowned and intrepid patriots in the struggle of the Corsicans to free themselves from the Genoese was Sampiero, born of poor parents towards the end of the 15th cent, in Dominicacci, one of the hamlets which compose Bastelica. His house having been burned down by the Genoese, the inhabitants in the 18th cent. constructed a new one on the same site, on which Mr. Wyse, an Irishman, affixed a tablet with an inscription in 1855, expressing his admiration of the man. After serving with great distinction in the armies of the Italian princes and in those of Francis I., King of France, Sampiero returned to Corsica in 1547 and married the fair Vanina, heiress of Ornano, belonging to one of the oldest families in the island.

Shortly after the marriage the Corsicans, led by Sampiero, revolted against the tyranny of the Banking Company of St. George of Genoa, and, assisted by the French, under General Thermes, overthrew them after six years of hard fighting and much bloodshed, in which Sampiero and his peasant army bore by far the greatest share. All, however, they had gained at such immense sacrifice was completely lost to them by the treaty of Chateau Cambresis, 1559, by which France agreed 39 to restore Corsica to Genoa. Sampiero and his family had to leave the island. Such was the virulent and implacable hatred Sampiero bore to the Genoese, that he with his own hand, in cold blood, strangled mercilessly his trembling wife three years after (1562) in Marseilles, for having allowed herself, in his absence, to be persuaded to make an arrangement with the Genoese to save the patrimony of her children. Sampiero escaped with impunity, although he buried his murdered wife publicly, and with pomp, in the church of St. Francis at Marseilles.

Antonio Francesco, the younger son, who was, when a mere child, with his mother when she was murdered, was afterwards assassinated at Rome by a Frenchman, whom he had insulted while playing at cards.

On the 12th June 1564 Sampiero landed at the Gulf of Valinco with a band of 20 Corsicans and 25 Frenchmen, to make another desperate attempt to free Corsica from the hated yoke. After a five years’ life-and-death struggle, fired by a feverish thirst for revenge, the Corsicans had to yield to the might of Genoa, supported by well-drilled Italian, German and Spanish mercenaries, commanded by their greatest generals, Doria, Centurione and Spinola, and aided by a powerful fleet.

On the 17th January 1567 Sampiero was slain in an ambuscade laid for him in the defile of Cauro, into which he had been led by forged letters brought him by the monk Ambrosius of Bastelica.

His elder son Alfonso d’Ornano continued the struggle after his father’s death, till the exhausted state of Corsica compelled him to desist and to accept a general amnesty proclaimed by the Genoese governor George Doria in 1569. Alfonso d’Ornano was afterwards created “Maréchal de France.”

Pascal Paoli.

From 1755 the Corsicans, led by the brave Pascal Paoli, carried on the struggle for their independence against the Genoese, who were occasionally assisted by the French. On the 15th May 1768 the former sold their presumed claims to the island to the French, who ended this war of subjugation by the terrible battle of Ponte Nuovo, 9th May 1769. On the llth of June Paoli left Porto-Vecchio for London; where, at the instance of the Duke of Grafton, then prime minister of England, he received an annual pension of £1200.

After Corsica had been made one of the departments of France he was invited in 1790, by the National Assembly, to take the supreme command in the island. On his arrival at Paris (3d April 1790), on his way to Corsica, he was fêted as the Washington of Europe, and Lafayette was constantly by his side; while, on his arrival at Marseilles, he was received by a deputation, among whom was Napoleon. In July 1790 he landed at Macinaggio, on the east side of Cap Corse.

40 The execution of the king and the cruelties and excesses of the Convention having shocked the philanthropic spirit of Paoli and alienated his sympathies, he organised a revolt to separate Corsica from France, and succeeded by the aid of the English fleet, 20th July 1794, when Calvi, the last of the forts, surrendered. On the 10th of June 1794 the Corsicans declared that they would unite their country to Great Britain, but that it was to remain independent, and to be governed by a viceroy according to their own constitution.

The English, from ignorance, managed the affairs of the island so badly, that when in 1796 Napoleon sent troops against them, they were joined by the Corsicans, who together forced the English to leave the island. Not only had a certain Gilbert Elliot been named viceroy instead of Paoli, but this same man having written to the Government that it was necessary for the safety of the English to remove Paoli from the island, George III. wrote Paoli a letter inviting him to return to England and to his court. It is suspected that Andrea Pozzo di Borgo, president of the Council of State, under the short viceroyship of Elliot, influenced, for his own ends or from jealousy, the English in Corsica against Paoli.

Paoli lived twelve years more in London, died peacefully on 5th February 1807 at the age of 82, was buried in St. Pancras churchyard, and a small monument to his memory was placed in Westminster Abbey. He bequeathed to four professors of the intended Corté University salaries of £50 a year each, but as it was never established the money was given to the Ecole Paoli in Corté, attended by 120 pupils.

Since the expulsion of the English, the French have remained in undisturbed possession of Corsica. The English occupation lasted from 1794 to 1796.

Character.

The Corsicans look to the Government for the improvement of their island far more than to their own efforts, for they themselves are neither industrious nor enterprising. The roads, railways, bridges and other public works are constructed chiefly by Italian labourers. The women do the drudgery both in their homes and on the fields, carrying great loads on their heads, as the mules do on their backs; but bestow little labour on the cleanliness of their children and dwellings, and do not make good domestic servants. In many small towns women are the bread bakers and assistant butchers. The villages, excepting in Cape Corse, are untidy. The use of the bath is almost unknown to young and old, rich and poor.

Vendetta.

The tendency to take summary vengeance, called vendetta, still 41 exists in the villages; where the people having no social amusements, nothing to read, nor any other resource than cards during the winter nights, are apt to quarrel over trifles; which, fanned by their local petty jealousies, assisted often by the generous nature of their wine, ripen into deadly feuds.

Oaks.

The staple food of the majority of the inhabitants, as well as of the horses and mules, during a great part of the year, is the chestnut. For domestic purposes it is mostly ground, when it costs only about half the price of wheat flour, which is procured chiefly from Marseilles, Corsica itself producing very little. The ease with which the harvest of chestnuts is annually obtained tends to foster indolence and deaden enterprise among the peasantry. The one great danger to which the generous chestnut trees are exposed is a conflagration. Besides olives, pines, beeches and chestnuts, there are also important forests of evergreen oaks, the Quercus Ilex, called also the holm oak. It has abundance of dark-green ovate leaves, mostly prickly at the margin; the acorns are oblong on short stalks; the stem grows to the height of 80 ft.; the wood is dark-brown and hard, weighing 70 lbs. the cubic foot, while the same of the Quercus ruber or British oak weighs only 55 lbs., and the tree attains a vast age. The cork oak, Quercus suber, grows either singly among other trees or in groups, principally in the southern parts of the island. The bark is of little commercial importance.

Agriculture.

The inhabitants do not assist nature. Their seed potatoes are of an inferior class, their fruit trees receive little attention, very few of the vineyards are carefully cultivated, and their sheep, goats and pigs are of poor breeds. Of late years many have taken to the growing of lemons and citrons; which in a good year yield a very handsome profit; but the harvest, through untimely frosts, is precarious. The headquarters of this culture is Cape Corse. The olive trees yield a more secure though less remunerative harvest. That terrible scourge the phylloxera has got among the vineyards, where it is committing its usual havoc.

The drives and pedestrian excursions about Corsica are superb, especially along the east side and up the centre by Sartène, Zicavo and Ghisoni (p. 27), and the road between Calvi and Ponte alla Leccia (p. 20). There are inns in all the large villages, though the only good and comfortable hotels are in Ajaccio.

Foresthouses.

Enterprising tourists wishing to explore the great forests and to scale the mountains should endeavour to procure letters of introduction from the chief forestal authorities at Ajaccio, Corté, Bastia or Calvi to the occupants of the Maisons Forestières in the forests to be visited. Although the gardes forestières are generally hospitable, they are afraid to follow their inclination without orders from their superiors. For each day in these houses 7 to 8 frs. should be given.

#### INDEX.

Index links lead directly to the named entry, not to the top of the page.

Agriculture 41 Aïtone forest 18, 23 Ajaccio 3 Bankers 3 Cab tariff 3 Cathedral 5 Climate 6 Curiosities 6 Drives 3 Episcopal chapel 3 Excursions 5 Fountains 6 Hotels 3 Library 5 Memorial chapel 5 Mission 3 Napoleon 4 Picture gallery 5 Pozzo di Borgo 4 St. Pancras 6 Sepulchral chapels 6 Steamers 2 Water-carriers 6 | Ajaccio to Bastia 7 —— to Corté —— to Sartène 23 —— to Vico and Evisa 22 Albertacce 19 Albuccia point 28 Aleria 32 —— to Corté 33 —— to Puzzichello 33 Alesani 33, 35 Algajola 15 Amphibole 27 Apa 24 —— to Zicavo 24 Appietto 22 Arcarotta col 33, 35 Asco 19, 20 Aullene 27
Balagna valley 20 Balogna 23 Baracci baths 26 Barcaggio 14 Bastelica 24 Bastia 10 —— to Calvi 14 —— to Cap Corse 11 —— rail to Aleria 34 Baths of Baracci 26 —— of Caldaniccia 6 —— of Guagno 23 —— of Guitera 25 —— of Orezza 34 —— of Pietrapola 28, 32 —— of Puzzichello 33 Bavella col 26, 31, 36 | Belgodere 21 —— to Olmi-Capella 21 —— to Tartagine forest 21 Bettianella lake 9 Bevinco 10 Bianca bocca 22 Bicchisano 26 Biguglia lake 10 Bocca Melza 16 Bocognano 7 Bonifacio 30 Caves 31 Charles V. 30 Napoleon 30 Bonifacio to Bastia 31 Borgo 10 Botticella 14 Brando cave 10, 12 Brustico 35
Calacuccia 19 Calasima 19 Calcatoggio 17 Caldanella 17 Caldaniccia 6 Calenzana 22 Calenzana A* 15 Calvi 15 —— to Ajaccio 16 —— to Bastia 20 Campo 25 Cap Corse 11 Capella mount 27 Capronale col 16 Cargese 17 Cargiaca 27 Carrosaccia 6 Casabianca 34 Casabianda 32 Casamaccioli 19 Casamozza 34 Cassalabriva 26 Castagneto 33, 35 Castagniccia 35 Castellaccio col 16 Castello punta 24 Castiglione 20 | Cauro 23 —— to Bastelica 24 Celaccia col 26 Cervione 33, 35 Character 40 Chestnut trees 1, 41 Chidazzo 18 Cineraggia mount 21 bocca 22 Cinto mount 1, 19, 20 Climate 2 Coast lakes 10, 31, 32 Corona mount 19, 21 Corsican arms 38 —— character 40 —— dimensions 1 —— patroness 38 Corscia 19 Corté 8 —— to Aleria 8 —— to Mt. Rotondo 8 Coscione mount 25 Cotone 33, 35 Cozzano 27 Cristinacce 17 Cuculla mount 18
Dente Capo 21 Diana lake 32 | Dominicacci 24 Don Giovanni mount 27
Else valley 24 Erbajo col 8, 16 Erbalunga 12 Ersa 14 | Escutcheon 38 Evergreen oaks 41 Evisa 18, 23 —— to Albertacce 18
Felce 35 Feliceto 21, 22 Fium Orbo source 28 | Folelli 33 —— to Piedicroce 33 Francardo bridge 9, 20 Frasseto 24, 25
Galeria 16 —— to forests of Filosorma 16 Ghisonaccia 32 —— to Ghisoni 29 Ghisoni 29 —— to Ghisonaccia 29 Giraglia island 14 | Golo source 19 Gozzi mount 22 GranaceB* col 25 Grosso mount 21 Guagno baths 23 Guitera baths 25
History 37 | Houses of shelter 41. See also under “Maison.”
Ile Rousse 15 Incudine mount 25 | Inzecca 29 Isolaccio 28
Kyrie Eleison 28
Lacciola col 17 La Piana 17 Larone col 26, 36 Lavatoggio 21 Leone coronato 30 Levie 26, 32, 37 | Lonca valley 16 Lozzi 19 Lugo 8 Lugo di Nazza 32 Lumio 15 Luri 12
Macinaggio 13, 39 Maddalena isle 25 Maison Aïtone 18 —— Alza 36 —— Arghiavara 36 —— Ballatojo 36 —— Bavella 36 —— Canareccia 28 —— Castellaccio 18 —— Castelluccio 36 —— Ghiraldino 28 —— Marmano 28 —— Ometa 16 —— Popaja 19 —— Rocchio-Pinzuto 36 | Maison S. Antoine 28 —— Sciattarina 18 —— Scrivano 28 —— Tagnone 18 —— Zipitoli 24 Manganella col 9 Mariana 34 Marmano forest 28 Menta col 24 Moltifao 20 Moor’s head 38 Morosaglia 35 Morsaglia 14 Mouflon 2 Muchieto 33, 35
Napoleon 4, 26, 30 Nelson 26 Nino lake 19 | Niolo 19 Nonza 12, 14
Olivese 27 Olive trees 20 Olmeto 26 Olmi-Capella 21 | Ometa ilex forest 16 Oninanda col 20 Orezza spa 34 Oro mount 1 Ortale 33, 35
Padro Mount 1, 21 Padulella 33 Pagliorba mount 1 Palasca 22 Palneca 28 Pancheraccia 33 Paoli 39 Patron Saint 38 Pecorile 14 Perticato forest 16 Pertusato mount 31 Petrella col 19 Piano 34 Piedicroce 34, 9, 35 —— to Prunete 35 Pietrapola baths 28, 32 Pines 7 Pino 12, 14 Pinus Laricio 7 Pinus Pinaster 7 Poggio di Nazza 32 | Pont Diable 20 Pont du Golo 34 Ponte alla Leccia 9, 22 —— to Calvi 20 —— to Piedicroce 34 Ponteniello forest 24 Ponte NovoC* 9, 22, 39 Popolasca 20 Porri 34 Porta 34 Porto 16 —— to Evisa 18 —— to Ponte Francardo 18 Portopollo 32 Porto-Vecchio 31 Prato col 35 Propriano 26 —— to Solenzara 26 Prunelli source 28 Prunete 33, 35 —— to Alesani 33
Quercus Ilex 41
Rapara Col 28 Renoso mount 7, 24 Retto mount 19 | Rogliano 13 Rotondo mount 1, 8
Sagona 17, 23 —— to Aitone forest 17 —— to Vico 23 St. Antoine col 23 — Bernardino col 14 — Colombano col 22 — Devota 38 — Florent 14 — Georges col 24 — Gavino di Carbini 37 — Lucia di Tallano 26, 27, 32, 37 — Lucie col 12 — Maria Siché 24 — Nicolao 33 — Pietro mount 35 — Sebastien colD* 22 — Severa 12 Salario fountain 6 Sampiero 24, 38 Sartène 27 —— to Bonifacio 30 —— to Vivario 27 | Scala di Santa Regina 10 Scozzolatojo col 29 Scrivano col 28 Sea-urchins 22 Sebastien colD* 17 Seneca’s tower 12 Serra col 14 Serraggio 8, 33 Sevi col 17 Silvareccio 34 Solenzara 31 —— to Sartène 36 —— to Zonza 31 Sollacaro 26 Sorba col 29 Speloncato 21 Spelunca 18 Sposata 25 Stazzona 34 Steamers 2, 10, 11 Stretta 35
Taca Forest 27 Tafonato mount 16, 18 Taravo source 28 Tartagine forest 21 Teghime col 14 | Theodore Neuhoff 32 Torre all’Osse 12 Traunato mount 20 Treccio ilex forest 16
Ucciani Bridge 7 | Uomo di Cagna 30
Vadina 8 Valdoniello forest 18, 23 Vanina 25, 38 Vecchio source 28 Vendetta 40 Venzolasca 34 Verde col 28 Verde forest 28 Vergio col 18 | Vescovato 34 —— to Porta 34 Vico 23 Ville 21 Vivario 8, 29 —— to Pietrapola 8 —— to Sartène 27 Vizzavona 7
Wines 2, 11 | Wyse, W., 24
Zecavo 25 Zicavo 25, 27, 28 | Zonza 26, 31, 36

##### THE END.

###### Printed by R. & R. Clark, Edinburgh

#### Transcriber’s Notes

When the Index and body text disagreed on spelling, the form shown in the General Map was used. The abbreviation “ft” was regularized to “ft.” where the full stop was missing or invisible.

A*. Index entry reads “Calenzani”, but body text has “Calenzana”; it appears to refer to the same place as the earlier Index entry for “Calenzana”.

B* (Index), B* (text). Body text has “Garanace” and Index has “Garance”. The Map’s spelling “Granace” was used because it can be found in modern sources; the Index entry was alphabetized accordingly.

C*. The General Map and the town description (p. 9) use the “Novo” spelling; references on p. 22 and p. 39 use “Nuovo”. The Index as printed had parallel entries: “Ponte Novo 9, 22” and “Ponte Nuovo 9, 22”. The p. 39 link was added by the transcriber.

D*. The names “Col St. Sebastien” and “Col Sebastien” are each used once in the text. They are the same place, called “St. Sebastien” on the Map.

##### About the Guidebook

The Itinerary through Corsica originally appeared as one section of Black’s guide to the Riviera. In later editions it became a separate volume. In the text as scanned, the Table of Contents and List of Maps appear twice: first as pages v-vii (with Maps on unpaginated viii) headed “Contents”, then as pages xv-xvii (Maps on xviii) headed “Corsica”. Pages ix-xiv are absent. The simplest explanation is that the introductory pages from two different versions of the book found their way into the same archive.

Black’s Guide to South France, East Half says: “The asterisk signifies that they [hotels or inns] are especially good of their class.” As this explanation comes more than 200 pages into the book, it can be assumed that the usage was already familiar to the reader.

***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ITINERARY THROUGH CORSICA***

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